This section is from the "Hand Sewing Lessons" book, by Sarah Ewell Krolik. Also available from Amazon: Hand Sewing Lessons: A Graded Course For Schools And For The Home.
Outline and Fagoting Stitches.
Heavy unbleached cotton or butcher's linen, 5 inches square.
Sheer linen or lawn, 7 inches square.
Chain-stitch. (See Illustration 34. No. 1.) Use red marking cotton. Fasten the thread, hold it down to the left, put the needle in at the end of the last stitch, and sew through the loop.
Feather-stitch. (See Illustration 34. Nos. 2 and 3.)
Hold the thread as in chain-stitch, and follow the designs.
Herring-bone Stitch. A feather-stitch, with longer arms and shorter leaves. (See Illustration 34. No. 5.) These stitches can be learned on paper or dotted calico.
KENSINGTON Stitch is a backstitch made backward instead of forward, each stitch passing the last so as to form a double line of stitches. (See Illustration 33.)
Running Outline Stitch is made by passing a thread through each one of a row of running stitches. (See Illustration 33.)
Fagoting is cat-stitching or making bundles of thread between two edges of cloth. It is also an openwork stitch made on sheer linen or muslin. (See Illustrations 35 and 36.)
(a) Draw a single thread from each side of the linen, 1/2 inch from the edges, and chain-stitch on the lines. Fold the edges back 1/4 inch, and hold them in place with flannel-stitch. (See Illustration 34. No. 8.) Fill the center with patterns of feather-stitching.
Any small article which illustrates these stitches will represent this model.
(b) Make a doily of the 7 inch square by running a row of stitches one inch from the edge and another in a circle around the centre, 41/2 inches in diameter. The hem is attached after the work is done. Use 100 thread and a No. 4 needle. The running stitches
Illustration 35 (a). Method of fagoting on lawn, enlarged.
Illustration 35 (c). Thread drawn closely after each stitch.
Illustration 35 (b). Fagoting with fine thread on Sheer Lawn.
Illustration 36. Fagoting with coaise thread to join bands.
are a guide and centre line for the work. (See Illustration 35 a.) Take up a stitch (a) to (c), sew through twice, and once from (b) to (V). Sew through (b) to (d) twice and once from (c) to (d). When used on a straight line, two threads may be drawn for guides. Fagoting is used for hems, simple designs and initials.