1. The facing always turns back flat on one side of the cloth. How does a binding differ from this? See Fig. 25.

2. Is a binding or a facing more like a hem?

3. The first step in putting the edge of the binding to the cloth is just the same as putting the edge of the facing to the cloth. How is turning and creasing the binding different from turning and creasing the facing? See Fig. 25. Inspection of Neck Finish. - Criticize your own work for the following things:

1. Is the bias facing or band cut an even width or is it narrow in certain places?

2. Is it basted with small enough stitches so it will not slip when the stitching is being done?

3. Is the turn made neatly and held firmly in place with basting ready for stitching?

4. Is the last turn made so the raw edge cannot show?

5. Does the last stitching follow the edge closely or does, it run off the edge?

Finish for the Sleeves. - The finish at the bottom of the sleeves generally matches the finish at the neck. For example, if the facing is turned to the right side at the neck it should be turned to the right side on the sleeves. Directions for putting on the facing at the bottom of the sleeves need not be given because it is put on exactly like the facing at the neck. as shown in Fig. 26. If it is possible stand on a table or some kind of raised platform. Why will this be helpful? When the garment is taken off it should be spread out on a table and pinned more accurately. Sometimes there are slight irregularities in the way it is pinned and these should be straightened. Next, measure the two sides to see if they are equal in length. This is a means of checking the accuracy of the length from the floor. However, if one shoulder is higher, this means of checking can not be used. After all this is done, finish the hem according to the following directions. This hem is made a little differently than the hems on curtains and towels because it is on a curved edge.

Hem at the Bottom. - Next, the proper length for the garment should be determined. Fig. 26 shows how it should be done. Decide how many inches from the floor you wish to have the bottom of your garment after it has been hemmed. Have your partner put in the pins as shown in the picture. This line of pins will tell you where to turn the fold of your hem. It is better to use a ruler or yardstick for measuring because it will not bend as would a tape measure. Turn slowly while your partner puts in pins at intervals of every three or four inches

Fig. 26.

What You Can Make From The Kimono Pattern 60

1. Cut a paper gauge the desired width for the hem. If you do not remember how to make a gauge refer to Fig. 13.

Fig. 27.

What You Can Make From The Kimono Pattern 61

2. Turn the hem on the line of pins.

3. Mark the width of the hem with pins, using the gauge to get it even. Then trim the hem if necessary.

4. Be sure that when the seam is folded back it is pinned directly to the seam underneath. This is pointed out by the arrows in Fig. 27.

5. Sometimes on a curved hem the top edge is too full.

In this case it is necessary to take little plaits as shown in Fig. 27.

6. Finish the hem just as you would finish the hem on a straight edge. Why is it necessary to baste this hem? Inspection of Hems. - 1. Are they turned evenly?

2. If carelessly or loosely basted will the basting hold the hem firmly?

3. Does the stitching run off the edge?

4. Is the stitching so far from the edge that it will not hold the first turn in place?