This section is from the book "Progressive Lessons In The Art and Practice of Needlework", by Catherine F. Johnson. Also available from Amazon: Progressive Lessons In The Art And Practice Of Needlework.
The following papers, prepared by the pupils, are added to show the relation of drawing and language to needlework; demonstrating a lesson in this way makes the work educational as well as practical.
I first cut the worn or torn place out square. The four edges are made true by a drawn thread. Then I make the bias cuts, which are small cuts 1/4 in. in each corner, and crease the edges to mark for a line of stitching. Then I mark the lengthwise of my cloth and patch by a pin or a crease. I lay the patch on the under side, and baste the edges even, first taking a few stitches out on the patch; and when one side is finished, I sew a few stitches out on the other side of patch, as before. This is to make the corners square. I then cut the thread, and turn to the width of my cloth, and begin out on the patch. Then I sew the sides, as I did before, until I have the four sides sewed, and overcast the raw-edges.
My first diagram represents the torn or worn place.
My second diagram represents the torn or worn place cut out square; the dotted lines show where it is creased. My third diagram represents the patch basted on to the garment. My fourth diagram represents the patch stitched in, and the edges overcast.
My fifth diagram represents the patch finished.
(Age 12 years).
W. H. Lincoln School.
For oversewing we put the two edges together, and baste 1/16 in. from the top. We use No. 2. basting line. We begin at the right hand, and sew to the left.
We commence oversewing by taking a stitch on the right-hand end; draw the thread all but 1/2 in., put that 1/2 in. on the top, and go on sewing over it three stitches. If the end of the thread is now seen, cut it off.
To join a new thread, we go back three stitches, then take a stitch and pull the thread through, leaving 1/2 in.; put that on the top with the other end; sew over it four stitches. If the end is seen, cut it off; when we are through, we sew back two stitches.
(Age 10 years).
W. H. Lincoln School.
In preparing a piece of cloth to sew to a band, I find the middle, and mark it with a cross-stitch. Fig. I represents my cloth. I find the middle of the band, and mark it with a small line of basting stitches like Fig. 2. I make a line of running stitches for gathering. Now
I draw these gathers into as small a space as possible, and wind the thread around a pin, and stroke my gathers ; when this is done, I pin the ends of the gathered piece \ in. from the ends of the band, like Fig. 3, and baste it to the band 1/16 in. below the gathering thread, fastening the ends securely by three oversewing stitches down to the gathering thread, now holding the gathers toward me, take one back-stitch on every gather, take out the bastings, turn the band up from the gathers, baste and oversew the ends of the band; baste and hem the other edge of the band to the gathers, take one stitch in each grather. Fig:. 4 shows band finished.
Nellie E. Johnson
(Age 14 years).
Heath School, Brookline, April 18, 1893.
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