This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
Take the measures as for the child's waist. Then draw a parallelogram as for that waist, with half the bust measure for the base line A, and the front length with two and one-half inches added for the vertical line B, which is drawn as a dotted help line. The horizontal line C is also a dotted help line, while the vertical line D is a cutting line. Measure the side length on the vertical lines B and D, and from these two points draw a dotted help line E. Measure the front length on the vertical lines B and D, and draw a dotted help line F. Measure one-fourth of the bust measure on line A from the left-hand lower rig-lit angle of the parallelogram, and also on line C, and draw a straight dotted help line G.
Take half the back width, and measure on the base line A from the lower right-hand angle of the parallelogram, and draw the vertical help line H. From line C down line D, measure an eighth of an inch, point 1, and one inch and a half on line C and half an inch up, point 2, and connect with a slightly curved line which forms the back neck. From point 2 to the intersection of lines H and F, draw an oblique line; measure the length of the shoulder, point 3. Draw a slightly curved line from this point to the intersection of lines E and H for the back arm scye.
Measure off one inch on line A from the angle of A and D, and draw a help line from the back of the neck to this point. Measure half the shoulder length, point 4. Measure three inches to the left on line A from the angle of lines A and D, and draw a dotted help line I to point 4. Measure three inches along the arm scye from the end of the shoulder line, point 5, and draw a slightly curving line to the help line I, and follow it to line A. This line is the back form.
Add an inch and three-quarters to lines A and C for the back lap, and connect these two points with the cutting line J.
Girl's Graduating Dress.
Measure two inches and a half down line B, point 6, and the same distance on line C, point 7, and connect with a curved line, which forms the neck. From this curved line to line A, make B, the dotted help line, a cutting line. From the neck line on C, draw an oblique line to the intersection of lines H and F, point 8. Measure the length of the shoulder from the neck on this line, point 9, and draw a curved line to the intersection of E and H, forming the front arm scye.
Measure from the angle formed by lines A and B, one inch and a half to the right, point 10; again measure one inch and a half from point 10 to point 11. Half-way between these two, draw a straight help line upward five inches, and connect points 10 and 11 with an oblique cut-ting line coming together at the top of this five-inch help line. This forms the first dart. Measure one inch to the right of the last line, point 12, and an inch and a half to the right, point 13. Half-way between these two points, draw a straight dotted help line upward six inches. Connect points 12 and 13 with the upper part of the six-inch dotted help line by oblique lines, which gives the second dart.
After excluding the darts, if line A is longer than half the waist measure, take off the difference equally on each side of line H.