This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
Whatever the style of the dress, it should measure one yard from the neck to the lower edge of the hem. If it is a dress with a waist, the skirt is similar to the cambric skirt, and the waist identical with the one already described. The bishop sleeve, like those in the wrapper, or a plain sleeve, may be used. If the dress is a yoke with full skirt, the yoke is simply the waist cut off so that the desired width is left, with the skirt cut about four inches longer, or whatever the difference is between the width of the yoke and the entire waist. With the exception of the length of the skirt, the yoke dress is cut the same as one made with the waist.
What constitutes a simple outfit for an infant? Ans. A flannel band, a pinning blanket, a flannel skirt, a cambric skirt, a wrapper, a sack, and a dress. There should also be a little bed with sheets, pillow cases, a blanket, and a quilt.
What are the measures for the flannel band? Ans. It is cut twenty-four inches long and nine inches wide.
How is it finished? Ans. With an inch-wide hem, turned first along the sides, and then across the ends, and is catch-stitched on the right side.
Why is the hem turned this way? Ans. The two sides and then the two ends are turned that the corners may be neat and uniform, and the hem is turned on the outside that the smooth side may come next the body.
Of what material is the skirt? Ans. Fine linen.
How many measures are used, and what are they? Ans. Four, - a bust, a front, a side, and a shoulder measure.
How is the pattern for the shirt laid on the goods? Ans. So that the shoulders and also the front are on a doubled fold of the goods.
How is it drawn up about the neck? Ans. With a ribbon run through the lace trimming.
What is a pinning blanket? Ans. It is an open flannel skirt of two lengths of thirty-six-inch flannel, thirty-six inches long.
How is it made? Ans. The two lengths of flannel are seamed together; a two-inch hem is turned down the sides and across the bottom; it is then plaited, and sewed on an underwaist.
How is the underwaist for the pinning blanket drafted? Ans. Like the other waist of this system, with two inches added to the front length, instead of two and one-half.
What are the measures used for this infant's waist? Ans. A bust measure of twenty-four inches, waist measure twenty-four inches, front length six inches, side length four inches, shoulder two and one-half inches.
Is the front different from the back? Ans. No, it is the same, except that the neck and armholes are cut out a little more in the front than in the back.
How is the waist cut? Ans. The pattern is laid on the doubled goods, one-half an inch allowed for seams, and one and three-fourths inches for hem and closing.
How is the pinning blanket joined to the waist? Ans. It is plaited, and then sewed onto the waist with a narrow bias band of cambric to fell over the seam.
How is the flannel skirt cut? Ans. Of two lengths of thirty-six-inch flannel, thirty-one inches long.
How is it made? Ans. The lengths of flannel are seamed together, a hem two inches wide is turned, a six-inch placket is cut in the center of one width; and after this is hemmed and finished, the skirt is plaited, and joined to the underwaist as the pinning blanket is.
How is the cambric skirt cut? Ans. It is cut of two lengths of thirty-six-inch cambric, thirty-four inches long.
How is it made? Ans. Like the flannel skirt, except that there is a five-inch hem turned, and it is gathered instead of being plaited.
How is the wrapper drafted? Ans. Like the waist, with the drawing extended twenty-eight inches beyond the waist line, and one and one-half times the width added for the slant.
How is the garment cut? Ans. The pattern is placed on the doubled cloth, with one and one-fourth inches allowed for the lap in front.
What are the measures for the bishop sleeve of this wrapper? Ans.
For the outside arm nine inches, the width twelve inches, and the inside arm five and one-half inches.
How is the sleeve put in the armhole? Ans. The seam of the sleeve is placed one and one-half inches toward the front from the under-arm seam.
How is the sack drafted? Ans. Like the waist, with one inch added to each of the side seams in excess of the allowance for seams, with one-half an inch added to the length, and a slight curve below the waist line E.
What kind of a sleeve has the sack? Ans. Either a loose coat sleeve or a bishop sleeve like the wrapper.
How is the edge finished? Ans. Either with pinking, or an embroidered scallop.
How long should the dress be from neck to hem? Ans. One yard.
How is it drafted? Ans. Like the waist and cambric skirt.
How is the dress with yoke drafted? Ans. The waist pattern is cut off, leaving as much of the upper part as is desired for a yoke. The skirt is cut about four inches longer than the regular dress skirt, or still longer if the yoke is very short.