This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
The same measures are used in drafting the wrapper which are used for the waist, except that the drawing is extended twenty-eight inches beyond the waist, and one and one-half times the width is added for the slant, which in this case is nine inches, as the width is six inches, and the slant begins at the armhole, and extends to the bottom of the garment. The bottom of the garment is curved from the center of the width to the side seams, from which two inches are taken, as the slant makes the seams longer than the rest of the garment. The pattern is placed on the doubled cloth, with one and three-fourths inches allowed for the front lap. There is the same allowance for seams as in the waist. The material used is either flannel or cashmere, and if the material is heavy the seams should be clipped.
For the collar, cut a piece of the goods, five inches wide, the size and shape of the neck. After shaping it, join the outer edges on the wrong side. When finished, this collar should be two and one-half inches wide. Pin the center of the collar to the center of the garment in the back, and sew on the upper side, felling the under side over the seam.
The plain bishop sleeve is drafted like the dress sleeve, with three measures, - the outside arm nine inches, the width twelve inches, and the inside arm five and one-half inches. The band at the hand is six inches long, and two and one-half inches wide. In putting the sleeve in the armhole, the seam of the sleeve is placed one and one-half inches toward the front from the under-arm seam, and most of the fullness is gathered about the shoulder seam. The little wrapper is finished down the front with ties of baby ribbon, or it may be buttoned if preferred.