This section is from the "The Ladies' Work-Table Book: Domestic Needlework in Nineteenth-Century America" book, by Margaret Vincent. Also available from Amazon: The Ladies' Work Table: Domestic Needlework in Nineteenth-Century America.
The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slip one, and knit two together.. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteen narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward the centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material, with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two stitches, and turn ; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now find the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then again commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please.
Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceeding ones. Then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which will form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed.
Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fifty stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form the foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk, and trim with satin ribbon.
Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eight stitches, in blue, and knit one row plain ; then knit a plain row in white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn ; then a similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen stitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches are knitted with white ; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows o one color, and four of the other. The thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to correspond, are to be added; turn : this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches round the ancle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the wool forward, then slip one ; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows plain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double German wool.
This can be applied to a variety of useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches must be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel for the fringe.
On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch; The comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require a quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool; for the fringe a little more will be required.
You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it is done.