Fig. 13 is a drawing of a finished face plate. The pattern will be of the same shape as the face plate, which is to be finished all over. Use a piece of clear dry pine for this pattern, 5 3/4" square and 1 1/2" thick. First plane one side perfectly true and on this side mark out a circle 5 §" in diameter, cutting the block down to the circle just marked with a turn saw, if available, or approximating the circle with a back saw and paring chisel. This block is to be fastened to a screw centre plate with the planed side against the plate, this planed surface becoming the top surface of the finished pattern.

The threaded hole is to be drilled out and the thread cut after the casting has been made. The little recess at C, Fig. 13, will, however, be cored out in the mold, the recess cut in the pattern leaving a small green sand core projecting up from the bottom of the mold. In turning this pattern remember that E, Fig. 13, is the top side of the pattern, and also that the necessary allowances for finish and shrinkage, as well as a little draft, must be made. The surface D must be kept straight and should be tested with a scale or try square. Use a round nose chisel for turning the large fillet at F, Fig. 13.

Having brought the pattern, as nearly as possible, to the required size and form with the turning tools, it is necessary to consider those final processes which so much add to the appearance and smoothness of pattern work. The first of these processes is Sandpapering. The beginner often hurries his work thinking that sandpaper will hide the defects, and bring it all right. This idea is wrong, for, let a pattern be ever so carefully shaped and turned, if the sandpaper is carelessly applied, the sharpness of its outline will be destroyed and very Fikely its size and shape will be noticably changed. So, while we respect sandpaper, let us respect our tools more, and bring the pattern to as near the form required as is possible with the cutting tools, and then let the sandpaper be applied, not by folding it together and rubbing it upon the work, but by considering the outline we intend to finish and preparing a piece of wood for a rubber, to correspond to the shape. A flat surface requires a flat rubber, a convex surface a concave rubber, etc.

Having turned and sandpapered the pattern, as already directed, the next proceeding is to stop up all holes or cracks that are not to show in the casting, with either beeswax or putty. This is a simple process but it takes a good deal of practice to determine just the proper amount necessary for each hole or crack, so as not to require much time in trimming off the surplus. The wax is formed into a worm like shape, and with the heated point of a knife, not hot enough to make the wax run freely but only to cut it easily, the wax is pressed into the hole.

The third and last of the finishing processes is the application of the spirit varnish as mentioned in the last article. Varnishing lathe work cannot be done while running the lathe, but after the work is varnished, running the lathe will hasten the drying.

Fig. 14. Handwheel

Fig. 14 shows a finished hand wheel, the threaded hole being bored and the thread cut after the casting has been made. The pattern will be of the same shape as the finished casting, the necessary allowances being made for finish and skrinkage, B, Fig. 14, being the top surface of the pattern when molded. For this pattern use a piece of clear dry pine 3 3/4" square and 1 3/8•" thick. First plane one side perfectly true and on this side, mark out a circle, 3 5/8" in diameter, cutting the block down to the circle, following directions previously given. This block is to be fastened to a screw centre plate, the finished side A, Fig. 14, coming against a back piece which in turn comes against the face plate. If the screw centre plate has a long centre screw use a back piece, as indicated above, the block being then clear of the plate by an amount equal to the thickness of the back piece. This will enable the turner to finish the back curve near A, with a 1/4" round nose chisel.

If the centre screw is not long enough to permit the use of a back piece, the front side and the edge of the pattern may be finished and then chucked so as to finish the back surface, or the pattern may be turned from a block. In this latter case the extra amount of thickness will serve as a back piece and may be reduced with a parting tool to 1" diameter, thus allowing of the finishing of the back of the pattern with the 1/4" round nose chisel, after which the pattern is to be sandpapered and nearly cut off with the acute point of a skew chisel, care being taken not to hit the centre screw. This surface would then be the surface A, Fig. 14, and should be carefully trued up.

In turning this pattern templates should be cut out and used to enable the turner to easily obtain the desired outline. The molding of this pattern, as well as those previously given, will be taken up in a later chapter.