By Courtesy of the Brooks Boat Mfg. Co.

Introduction 9 230

The following materials are required:

Oak, Maple Or Ash

One piece 32 in. long, 5 in. wide, 1 3/4 in. thick for stems.

Eighteen running feet 1 1/4 in. wide and 5/8 in. thick for floor timbers.

Fifty-five running feet 3/8 in. half-round for fender.

Two running feet 1 in. quarter-round for corners of coaming.

Sixteen running feet 3 1/2 in. wide, 1 in. thick for knees.

Introduction 9 231

Fig. 1.

Pine, Cedar Or Cypress

Two pieces 15 feet long, 13 1/4 in. wide, | in. thick for bottom or, if more convenient, get 3 pieces 9 in. wide.

Two pieces 16 feet long, 14 inches wide 3/8 in. thick for side plank, or four pieces 8 feet long, 9 in. wide may be spliced.

One piece 16 feet long, 14 in. wide, | in. thick for deck. This may be in 2 pieces 7 in. wide.

Two pieces 8 feet long, 6 in. wide, | in. thick for side coaming.

Two pieces 2 ft. long, 8 in. wide, 5/8 in. thick for end coaming,

Hardware, Etc

One pound 6 penny wire nails; one pound 1 1/4 in. wire brads; one pound 1 1/2 in, wire brads; one pound 1 in. wire nails.

Six doz. 1 in. No. 12 screws; six doz. 1 1/4 in. No. 12 screws. One ounce of 2 ounce tacks. Four yards of drilling.

The duck boat may be built anywhere and requires no preparation, but those who intend building a number of boats should have a suitable shop. A light, warm shop makes boat building pleasant. On one side have a workbench with a plank top about 2 ft. 8 in. high and 16 ft. long. Have a carpenter's vise at the left hand end.

The tools required to build the duck boat are a claw hammer, saw, draw shave, block plane, smooth plane, half inch chisel, brace, No. 4 German bit, countersink, screwdriver and brad awl.


When patterns do not intersect they may be cut apart for convenience.

Paper patterns for this boat are to be obtained of the Brooks Boat Mfg. Co., Bay City, Mich., and those not familiar with boat construction will find them a great con-venience.

Lay the pattern on the material, place it so it will cut to the greatest advantage and not waste lumber, fasten pattern securely with a few tacks and then prick through with an awl on lines of patterns. When the lines curve make the prick marks close; follow outside of the line, which gives you room to dress with a plane after the pie is cut out; take pattern off and drive some small nails in marks made by awl. Now take a thin strip or batten and bend it up to nails, then mark in the line. This will reproduce the same lines on the lumber that are on the pattern. This method saves the pattern from being destroyed. As the ends of this boat are exactly alike, patterns of the pieces of one only are given; therefore after making one piece, use it for a pattern to make a duplicate for opposite end or side. If the local mill has a band or jig saw, most of the work may be saved by marking out the deck beams, knees and stems and having them cut to shape. When this cannot be done cut the pieces to shape with a keyhole saw and a drawshave.

Instructions 232

Fig. 2;

Instructions 233

Fig. 3.

Instructions 234

Fig. 4.

Instructions 235


Before driving a nail, punch a hole with a bradawl through the outside piece only. Before putting in a screw, first bore with a No. 4 German bit, then slightly countersink for the head of the serew.

The pattern shows one side only. Use two or three boards 3/4 in. thick. In illustration No. 1 three boards are used, the line in center being the center line marked on the board. The boards may be put together with a square seam and calked, or with a rabbeted seam, which is the better way for the mechanic. Make the rabbet 3/4 in. wide, and one half the thickness of the plank. Put together with lead paint and fasten with 7/8 in. clout nails, holding the clinchiron against nails. Stagger the nails along the joint to prevent splitting. The first-mentioned method of square seams is the best for the amateur. See that the edges of the boards fit squarely together and are planed smooth. Cut the floor timbers into their proper lengths and fasten the bottom to them with 1 in. screws, putting the screws through the bottom first into floor timbers. The bottom is now square and twice the width of pattern. Mark a center line from end to end on outside of bottom ; lay the center or dotted line of pattern to the line so marked and prick in the outside line. Now turn the pattern over and place to center line. Prick in the outside line by putting awl in the same holes. This gives entire bottom.

To make the stems, cut out of oak If in. thick. The rabbet line, as shown on patterns, is a line which is a furrow or trough cut in to receive the ends of the plank for the purpose of bringing them flush. This rabbet is cut in 3/8 of an in. deep and is beveled so as to receive the plank fair. Bevel in from rabbet line one way and from inner edge of stem, as shown in illustration. Bevel stem from rabbet to outer edge so as to leave edge | in. thick. Fasten stems to bottom with three 1 1/4 in. screws and if necessary, draw tight with two or three six penny wire nails. Cut out the knees. There are sixteen, all shaped by one pattern. Fasten them at their places to bottom with two 1 1/4 in-serews. You will note in illustration No. 2, that knees are swung so as to be square with edge at spot where they are located. Cut deck beams out of 3/4 in. pine or cypress and fasten at their station with a 1 1/4 in. brad at each end through bottom.

The side pieces, plank, may be in one or two pieces, as shown in illustration No. 3. When two pieces are used the butt or joint comes in center and is reinforced with a six in. piece of the same material, covering butt on inside and fastened with six or eight | in. screws or 7/8 in. clout nails. It is better to make the side plank in one piece, if lumber wide enough can be obtained. Before fastening on sides place the bottom flat on the work bench, put a two inch block under each end and fasten the middle down to bench. This will give about the proper sheer to the bottom so that the sides will go on easily.

Fasten the side plank on. Commencing at one end, fasten to stem with three 1 in. wire nails and to knees with three 1 in. wire nails, and to deck beams with two 1 1/4 in. screws. Fasten lower edge of sides to bottom with six penny wire casing nails, 1 1/2 in. apart. Cut out side deck knees 1, 2, 3. There will be four of Nos. 1 and 2 and two of No. 3. No. 3 goes in middle of boat, then 2 and 1 towards ends, as shown on pattern of side plank and in illustration No. 3. Fasten to deck beams with 1 1/4 in. brads.

When deck is on, set nail and smooth off with coarse sandpaper and put on drilling. Stretch on smooth and tack to inner and outer edge of deck. Illustration No. 4 shows coaming in before deck is finished. The drilling should be put on before the coaming is fastened in. Cut coamings and fasten end pieces to deck beams with four 1 1/4 in. screws. Fasten side pieces by putting a piece of 1 in. quarter-round at each corner and fastening both ways with three 1 1/4 in. screws. Round off the outer corners of coaming. Fasten bottom of coaming to edge of deck with 1 1/2 in. brads. Put a piece of | half-round for fender, from stem to stem. This will cover the seam between deck and sides and also cover the tack heads. Put a piece of 3/4 in. quarter round around outside of coaming on deck, fastening the quarter-round with 1 1/4 in. brads.

If the seams of the bottom have not been rabbeted, calk them with a light thread of calking cotton, using a small calking iron or a blunt putty knife will do. Be careful not to drive the cotton too hard as it swells when boat is in the water. Give the boat two good coats of lead paint, working well into all the seam joints. Should it be desired to rig boat for oars, a couple of iron outriggers similar to illustration may be fastened to coaming. For the benefit of the amateur we will repeat: Before driving a nail, punch a hole with a brad awl through the outside piece. Before putting in a screw, first bore with a No. 4 German bit, then countersink for screw head.