CARL H. CLARK

Across the top of the opening which has been left for entrance to the cabin, a piece about 2 in. wide is to be fastened longitudinally on each side of the beam, to fill it out to the level of the sheathing already in place. The top of the house is to be covered with about 8 oz. duck, laid in paint ; it is tightly stretched and brought down over the edge and tacked at close intervals with small copper tacks.

If it is desired, an opening may be left in the roof over the entrance, and a shade fitted over it, but with the height which there is between the floor and roof in this case, it is not considered necessary. A half round moulding of oak or mahogany, about 1 in. wide, is bent around the edge of the house and across, being mitered at the after corner, where the two lengths meet. The canvas should be painted with a priming coat.

The engine bed should be fitted as early as possible, before the floor is laid. In order to do this all the base measurements of the engine must be known. The shaft-hole being already bored, will locate the center-line. A small line or wire is drawn through the hole and fastened so that it lies exactly in the center, thus locating the shaft center : the forward end of this line should be fastened to a cleat nailed across the door of the cabin. The bed logs must, of course, be far enough apart to admit the base of the engine, and at the correct height so that the center line of the engine shaft will agree with the line already in position. A templet, or pattern, of thin board should be made of the inside surface of the bed.

The outline of the lower edge, which fits the side of the boat, may be obtained as follows: A carpenter's level is laid on the stretched cord, taking care not to sag it, the distance to the inside of the bed is measured out on the level, from the cord and the vertical distance it is from the last point down to the skin is measured. These measurements are taken on every frame throughout the bed, and are then laid off from the curvature. The bed logs should run well forward and aft of the engine to distribute the weight and should be tapered down at the ends. Each bed log is 4 in. thick. The pattern, after being fitted, is laid on and the log cut to shape, leaving the lower edge square. The bevel of the lower edge is obtained by trial and should fit neatly in place on the inside of the frames. It is now notched out to fit over the frames on to the plank, and when correctly fitted should lie fairly on the plank all over and stand vertical. The upper edge may now be laid off by the aid of the level, making it the same distance below the cord as the flanges of the engine are below the shaft center. It will be, well, however, to leave a small amount for the final fitting.

The beds are secured in place by nails or screws driven up through the plank. Between the beds a cross piece about 3 in. thick is fitted and fastened to hold them vertical, and on the outside two or three knees should be fitted between the beds and frames. Beds fitted in this way are very strong and distribute the vibration of the engine.

The floor of the standing room and cabin is supported on beams fastened across from frame to frame; these beams may be made of common stock 3/4 in. thick and 2 in. deep. The cabin floor should be as low as is possible and still avoid trouble with bilge water; that of the standing room should, however, be rather high, or otherwise it will be difficult to see over the cabin and the backs of the seats will be so high as to be uncomfortable. It should be about 11 in. above the rabbet on mould No. 4, and 4 in. above mould No. 7.

The floor beams are tapered off at the ends and fastened on top of the frames, care being taken to have them all in line. It will hardly be necessary to place them closer than every other frame. Beams which fall next to the engine bed will be cut and fastened to cleats on the side of the bed.

Flooring is of 3/4 in. stock and is laid out and fitted to the side of the boat in both standing room and cabin; the middle boards in the standing room cannot be fitted until the engine is installed.

The inside of the cabin may be either ceiled or left plain, as desired. For ceiling, 1/2 in. pine stock is used.

A space of 1/2 in. should be left between the clamps and the upper edge of the ceiling. The several strakes of ceiling are bent around and shaped in the same manner as the outside planking, the edges being beaded. It is fastened in with small nails or brass screws. The ceiling should extend down to the floor, making a fairly tight joint.

Light ports must now be cut in the trunk about 12 in. long and 4 in. wide, elliptical in shape. A compass saw is used to cut them, being started through" a ' in. hole. The inside edge is neatly rounded and on the outside a rabbet is cut about 1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. deep to take the glass. Glass for this purpose should.be at least double thick, cut to shape and set in putty.

The tank should be made and fastened in place next; the capacity should be about 20 gallons. A cylindrical, galvanized iron tank can be bought quite cheaply, and is very good for the purpose. It does, however, take up more room than one shaped to the boat. In the latter case, either copper or galvanized in on may be used, but in either case the metal should be heavy and the joints riveted and soldered. The tank is supported upon brackets and is strongly fastened in place so as not to be disturbed by the motion of the boat. The filling pipe should be carried up through the deck in one piece and have a screw cap, while the feed should have a cock with a union beyond it.

The bulkheads at the forward end of the cabin and the after end of the standing room are of | in. matched pine or cypress. The boards are fastened to the beams above, and to cleats nailed on the floor. A removable panel should be left in each and fitted with catches or hinges to hold it in place.

Cabin transoms are to be built above the floor, leaving a clear floor space between of about 2 ft. at the after end tapering forward. The transoms should run across the forward end of the cabin - and a board in the top should be made removable, to allow access to the locker space underneath. The front of the tran-soms should be sheathed up and a ledge formed around the top to hold the cushions in place. The cabin opening should have a jamb fitted around it and be provided with two doors opening outwards. Such lockers and shelves may be fitted in the cabin as may be desired.

Seats in the standing room are to be fitted about 16 in. above the floor ; they are supported on small beams which are fastened to the frames at the back and supported at the front by small turned posts. The seats should be at least 13 in. wide outside of wash rail, and preferably 15 in.

The make of engine to be installed will also make some difference in the arrangement of the seats, some makes of engines being so wide that it will be necessary to cut away the seat on one side abreast of the engine to give a sufficiently wide passage ; the opposite seat, however, should be left intact, as it is convenient for locker space, also to cover the piping. If a large amount of locker room is desired the space under the seats may be enclosed by sheathing up from the floor to the seat, leaving openings either in the sheathing or the seats for access to them.

The rudder may be either a 1/8 in. iron plate or of 1 in. oak. It is 22 in. square, with the corners rounded off as shown in the general plan. The stock is placed 4 1/2 in. from the forward edge.

If made of an iron plate the stock should be split and the blade inserted and riveted through. If made of wood the stock should be oak, put together with 5-16 in. galvanized iron rods. The piece forward of the stock, and a. similar piece aft of it. are fastened first, the rods being riveted over washers; the remaining pieces necessary to complete this size are then fastened to the after piece. The corners are rounded and the edge beveled off fairly sharp. The lower end should preferably be turned down to 1/2 in. to allow the insertion of a split pin below the skeg. The top is squared for the tiller with a 1/4 in. hole above the latter. The tiller should be about 15 in. long with an eye in the outer end to take the wheel ropes. It may be forged and drilled by a blacksmith and the hole filed out square by hand.

The skeg is of 1/2 in. x2 in. flat galvanized iron, with the end turned over as shown in general plan ; the space between the bend and the straight part being 1 in. A hole is drilled in the bend to take the lower end of the rudder stock. It is fastened to the bottom of the keel by three 1/4 in. lug screws.

A piece of | in. half round galvaninized iron is fastened on the face of the stem, running well down on to the keel.

All the varnished work should be treated to a coat of shellac, sandpapered, and given two coats of best spar varnish. Only the best varnish should be used, as a poor quality will allow the weather to get into the wood and stain it. The painted parts should have two coats after the priming, all the seams in both bottom and top sides being carefully puttied.

The bottom is painted with some kind of non-fouling paint, and it is advised that the water line be struck an inch of two higher than shown in the plans, so that the topside paint may not come near enough to the water to be fouled.

The arrangement of the boat as outlined, is, of course, for general guidance, and any changes may be made to suit any particular requirements of the individual builder.

The directions already given should enable the builder to complete the hull and the directions for installing the motor will be given in the next chapter.