The deck beams are of spruce 1 in. deep and 3/8 in. thick, with the exception of those of the cockpit, which are 1/2 in. thick. The forward deck beams should have a crown of about 6 in. in 2 1/2 feet, the same curvature being used for all. The after deck beams should have a crown of 2 in. in three feet. Deck beams are all spaced about 6 in. apart. To support the beams at each end a clamp is fastened on the inside of the frames; they are of pine 1 1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. deep, and are set down 1 in. below the gunwale so that the deck plank will rest evenly upon the top edge of the top streak when laid upon the beams. The clamps are laid in horizontal, as shown in Fig. 10, and should be notched over the frames so as to bear both upon frames and plank, and are fastened in place from the outside. These end clamps should extend about a foot beyond the ends of the cockpit. Alongside of the cockpit the clamp is fitted even with the top of the top streak so that the deck will lie upon it; it should also be notched over the frames and should extend beyond the ends of the end clamps already fitted so that the deck will lie evenly upon it after leaving the beams.

The deck beams are now fastened in place at the proper intervals and are held in place by nailing down into the clamps and if desired through the plank into the end of the beam. The beams at the ends of the cockpit are heavier, to take the extra strain at these

A High Speed Launch 187

Fig. 8 points. The cockpit extends from 12 in. forward of No. 2 mould to 8 in. aft of No. 4 mould.

The upper edge of the top streak is now bevelled off to the curves of the beams to allow the deck plank to lie evenly.

The deck planking is 1/8 in. thick, of pine, and should be in as wide pieces as is possible, not more than three pieces being used for the whole. A wide nearly parallel piece is fitted in the middle of the deck and the two side pieces are fitted tapering. It is fastened to the beams with nails about in. long, and the joint between the boards should be close and even. Midway between each two frames which, as before stated, are 6 in. apart, a binder or thin strip about 1 1/4 x1/4 in. is fastened on the under side in the same manner as a frame to support the deck between the beams. The edges of the deck and the top streak are fastened together with slim brass nails, very carefully driven about 2 in. apart. The forward end of the cockpit is curved as shown, and the raw edge of the deck is to be reinforced by a piece of | in. stock cut to the proper curve and fastened on the under side. A piece of 1/2 in. pine is fitted under the deck at the point of the bow to take the bow chocks and another piece under the position shown for each of the two cleats. The deck may or may not be covered with canvas, as desired; the latter course is, however, preferable, as the woodwork does not require to be as carefully done and the deck is more easily kept tight. In case it is not covered it should be 3-16 in. thick, and it may be finished bright in which case a mahogany deck is very ornamental. The entire boat should now be carefully smoothed over with fine sandpaper, and all nail heads well set so that there shall be no unevenness in the canvas.

The hole for the shaft will pierce the hull about 10 in. aft of No. 4 mould. In preparation for this a hole should be made in the canvas at the proper point and a ring of tacks driven around it after filling it with thick paint. This is to prevent the water leaking in between the canvas and the hull. This must be done before the wearing piece is fitted on the outside.

For covering the boat about 10 oz. canvas is to be used; if for any reason 10 oz. cannot be obtained, 8 oz. maybe used but the former is to be preferred, as it makes a stronger boat, two 36 in. widths will be required, one for each side, the length of the boat. Specific directions can hardly be given for stretching the canvas. It should, however, be laid on and stretched out lengthwise along the bilge and a little consideration will decide in which way it can best be laid. It is most likely that it will best stretch out along the bilge, taking wedge-shaped pieces off at each end to fit the center line. The outside of the boat should be covered with thick paint just before laying the canvas. The latter is well stretched fore and aft, and the tacking begun at the center line amidships; a few tacks should be driven at the center line, and then the canvas stretched very tight and a few driven at the gunwale, some more are then driven at the center line, and so on. The first piece to be laid should lap over the center line about 1/2 in. so that the other piece will overlap it and form a tight joint. The first piece need only be tacked sufficiently at first to hold it, as the tacks driven through the overlapping piece also hold the first. The tacking should thus work gradually towards the ends, always stretching the canvas tightly in both directions. At the bow the canvas is drawn across and tacked to the forward face, and on the stern it is drawn inside and tacked on the flat of the 8ternboards inside of the line of the plank. The tacking should be about 1/2 in. apart.

A High Speed Launch 188

The deck is covered with lighter canvas, 8 oz. being sufficiently heavy, it is stretched in the same manner and laid in paint; it is drawn over the edge of the gunwale and tacked over the other. The raw edge of the canvas is covered with a 1/2 in. half round moulding.

A High Speed Launch 189

Fig. 10

A High Speed Launch 190

Fig. 11.

A wearing strip of 1/4 in. pine 3 in. wide is now to be run outside the entire length of the boat; at the bow it is tapered to the width of the boat and is fastened with small brass screws. A stem piece of 1/4 in. oak is bent around the stem, joining the rubbing strip just fitted.