A piece of an old bicycle tire and a glass fruit jar are the only materials required for making this trap. Push one end of the tire into the hole, making sure that there is a space left at the end so that the mice can get in. Then bend the other end down into a fruit jar or other glass jar. Bait may be placed in the jar if desired, although this is not necessary. --Contributed by Geo. Go McVicker, North Bend, Neb.
Illustration: A Baitless Trap
Bore a 1-in. hole, about 2 in. deep, in a block of wood and drive a small nail with a sharp point at an angle so it will project into the hole about half way between the top and bottom, and in the center of the hole, as shown.
Hole In Wood Block
File the end very sharp and bend it down so that when the mouse pushes its head past it in trying to get the bait at the bottom of the hole, the sharp point will catch it when it tries to back out. Almost anyone can make this trap in a short time, and it will catch the mice as surely as a more elaborate trap.
A simple and inexpensive means for killing mice and rats is to leave yeast cakes lying around where they can eat . --Contributed by Maud McKee, Erie, Pa.
When opening a tomato or other small can, cut the cover crossways from side to side making four triangular pieces in the top. Bend the four ends outward and remove the contents, wash clean and dry and then bend the four ends inward, leaving a hole about 3/4 in. in diameter in the center. Drop in a piece of bread and lay the can down upon its side and the trap is ready for use. The mouse can get in but he cannot get out.--Contributed by E. J. Crocker, Victor, Colo.
A boy, while playing in the yard close to a grain house, dug a hole and buried an old-fashioned fruit jug or jar that his mother had thrown away, says the Iowa Homestead. The top part of the jug was left uncovered as shown in the sketch, and a hole was b r 0 ken in it just above the ground. The boy then placed some shelled corn in the bottom, put a board on top, and weighted it with a heavy stone.
The jug had been forgotten for several days when a farmer found it, and, wondering what it was, he raised the board and found nine full-grown rats and four, mice in the bottom. The trap has been in use for some time and is opened every day or two and never fails to have from one to six rats or mice in it.
Some time ago we were troubled by numerous large rats around the shop, particularly in a storehouse about 100 ft. distant, where they often did considerable damage. One of the boys thought he would try a plan of electrical extermination, and in order to carry out his plan he picked up an old zinc floor plate that had been used under a stove and mounted a wooden disk 6 in. in diameter in the center. On this disk he placed a small tin pan about 6 in. in diameter, being careful that none of the fastening nails made an electrical connection between the zinc plate and the tin pan.
This apparatus was placed on the floor of the warehouse where it was plainly visible from a window in the shop where we worked and a wire was run from the pan and another from the zinc plate through the intervening yard and into the shop. A good sized induction coil was through connected with these wires and about six dry batteries were used to run the induction coil whenever a push button was manipulated.
It is quite evident that when a rat put its two fore feet on the edge of the pan in order to eat the mush which it contained, that an electrical connection would be made through the body of the rat, and when we pushed the button up in the shop the rat would be thrown 2 or 3 ft. in the air and let out a terrific squeak. The arrangement proved quite too effective, for after a week the rats all departed and the boys all regretted that their fun was at an end. --Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Electric Rat Trap
After trying for months to keep the rats from tunneling their way into my chicken coop by filling in the holes, laying poisoned meat and meal, setting traps, etc., I devised a simple and effective method to prevent from doing harm.
My roosting coop is 5 by 15 ft. There is a 1-in. board all around the bottom on the inside. I used wire mesh having 1/2-in. openings and formed it into the shape of a large tray with edges 6 in. high, the corners being wired, and tacked it to the boards. This not only keeps the rats out, but prevents the chickens from digging holes, thus helping the rats to enter. --Contributed by John A. Hellwig, Albany, N. Y.
From an old 6-in. pine fence board cut off four pieces 2-1/2 ft. long and one 6 in. square for the end of the trap and another 4 in. by 8 in. for the door. Use old boards, as new boards scare rabbits.
Figure 1 shows how the box is made. It should be 4 in. wide and 6 in. high on the inside. The top and bottom boards project 1 in. beyond the side boards at the back and the end board is set in. The top board should be 2 in. shorter than the sides at the front. Nail a strip on the top board back of the door and one on the bottom board so the game cannot push the door open from inside the trap and get out.
Illustration: A Good Trap for Small Animals
In the middle of the top board bore a hole and put a crotched stick in for the lever to rest on. Bore another hole in the top of the door for the lever to pass through. Two inches from the back of the box bore a hole for the trigger, which should be made out of heavy wire in the manner shown in Fig. 2. The door of the trap must work easily and loosely.