In learning to use small woodworking machinery or a motorized home workshop, you will find the Maryland end table shown in Figs. 17, 18, and 19 is a particularly instructive and desirable piece of furniture to build. Because of its delicate proportions and graceful lines, it is a little gem; at the same time it is simple in construction.

Fig. 17. - A table slightly simpler in design than the one shown in Fig. 18. The edges of the top can be left unornamented.

Mexican mahogany is one of the best materials for this table, unless you intend to finish it with colored brushing lacquer, perhaps in some brilliant tone to make the piece individual and outstanding, in which case birch or maple is suitable. Because of the delicate proportions, a hard wood must be used.

Step No. 1 - Getting Out Stock. Using the planer and circular saw, get out all the stock in the following manner:

On the planer, dress one surface smooth and true; mark this with an X to indicate the working face. Hold this face against the fence of the planer and plane one edge at right angles to the working face. Mark this edge also with an X to identify it.

Hold the working edge against the fence of the circular saw and rip the stock to the correct width, allowing 1/16 in. for planing. In like manner obtain the thickness. Return to the planer (Fig. 19) and dress all sawed surfaces smooth and true. Follow this method for preparing all the pieces. Cut out cardboard patterns of all curved parts.

Step No. 2 - Turned Legs. The stock for the legs should be at least ½ in. longer than the finished measurement, to allow for turning the bottom end without striking the point of the dead center.

Draw diagonal lines on both ends of the stock to locate the centers. Bore small holes at these points to receive the center pins. Square lines around the stock to locate the portions that are to remain square.

Rough the stock with a gouge and turn to the design. Sandpaper thoroughly while in the lathe.

Step No. 3 - Curved Feet. Cut out the curved outline on the jig saw and smooth the edges on the drum sander. Use the disk sander for the flat bottom and top edges as in step No. 5.

Step No. 4 - Top Brace. On the jig saw cut out the outlines of the braces; on the drum sander, true and smooth the outline.

Step No. 5 - Joints. True the top and bottom flat edges of the curved feet on the disk sander. Carefully locate all the dowel holes. Place the chuck and dowel bit in the lathe and bore all the holes the correct depth.

Fig. 18. - A graceful Maryland end table constructed with the aid of small woodworking machines.

Fig. 19 (at right). - Planing the edges of the table top on a bench jointer. It is essential to hold the wood very firmly against the fence.

Step No. 6 - Sandpapering. Before assembling the table, thoroughly sandpaper all parts with No. 1 followed by No. ½ and 0 paper.

Step No. 7 - Assembly. Make a trial fitting between clamps without glue. First, glue the curved feet to the legs; then assemble the entire project, using plenty of first-class liquid glue or hide flake glue of good quality. The tops of the legs are held together by gluing a strip on each side of the leg. After this is done fasten the top to the braces with screws.

Step No. 8 - Cleaning Up. Remove all excess glue with a sharp chisel, working across the grain where possible. Thoroughly sandpaper all parts with No. ½, 0, and 00 paper, always rubbing with the grain where possible, and rounding the corners slightly. Step No. 9 - Finishing. If a lacquer finish is to be used, first apply two coats of white shellac, rubbing each coat when dry with 00 sandpaper. Apply the lacquer according to directions on the can.

If you have used mahogany or walnut or a wood which is to imitate them, brush on water stain or a prepared wood stain or dye of the desired color, and after it is thoroughly dry apply a very thin coat of shellac. Water stain has a tendency to raise the grain, and the shellac will stiffen these fibers and make them brittle. Sandpapering lightly with No. 00 or finer paper will cut them down clean and smooth.

Apply two coats of good quality paste wood filler (unless you have used some close-grained wood) according to directions you will usually find on the can containing the paste. Allow at least two full days - a longer time is even more desirable - for the filler to harden. Then brush on three coats of white shellac, rubbing each coat when dry with No. 00 or finer sandpaper and the last coat with rubbing oil, light machine oil, or crude oil and fine pumice stone powder.

With a spraying outfit, you can spray on clear lacquer instead of using shellac.