Roomy as is the Priscilla sowing cabinet shown in Figs. 9, 10, and 11, it has the advantage of being easy to carry about the house from place to place. As is customary, it contains a sliding tray, divided into four compartments, for buttons, needles, and small accessories.

Fig. 9. - Of all sewing cabinets the Priscilla is perhaps the favorite because of its Colonial grace.

Mexican mahogany is perhaps the best material for this project, although you may substitute cheaper woods and stain them to imitate mahogany.

Step No. 1 - Getting Out the Stock. On the planer dress one surface of each piece smooth and true and mark it with an X; this is known as the working face. Hold the marked surface against the fence of the planer and plane one edge at right angles to the working face. Mark this edge with an X; this is called the working edge. There are only two surfaces to mark.

Now go to the circular saw and, holding the working edge against the fence, rip the stock to the correct width, allowing 1/16 in. extra for the final planing (Fig. 12). In like manner, obtain the thickness, if not already correct. Return to the planer and dress all surfaces smooth and true.

Follow this method for getting out all stock. At this point it is advisable to cut out cardboard patterns of all curved parts to insure the required accuracy of size and shape.

Step No. 2 - Turned Legs. The stock should be at least ½ in. longer than needed to allow for turning the bottom end without striking the point of the dead center. Draw diagonal lines on both ends of the stock to locate the centers. Drill small holes at these points to receive the center pins of the centers. Square lines around the stock, locating the portions that are to remain square. Rough the stock with a gouge and turn to the design (Fig. 14). Sandpaper thoroughly while in the lathe.

Step No. 3 - Curved Feet. On the jig saw cut out the curved outline. On the drum sander smooth the edges just sawed. Use the disk sander for the flat edges at the top and bottom (Fig. 13). If you are not already accustomed to these machines, you will be agreeably surprised at their speed and accuracy.

Fig. 10. - The cabinet sketched in pencil. See Fig. 11 for the completely dimensioned working drawings.

Step No. 4 - Hopper Part. The end dado or box joints (see the detail drawing of the corner joints) can be made easily on the circular saw as follows:

Fig. 11. - Assembly views of the Priscilla cabinet and details of the joints at the corners of the hopper and between the legs and end pieces.

Set the circular saw a little over 1/8 in. above the saw table, and set the ripping gage at the proper distance from the saw blade, so as to make the four grooves on the end pieces. If your blade is thick enough, one cut will be sufficient. Now take the sidepieces and cut the tongues or tenons to fit these grooves just made. The cut should be made in two operations to insure a perfect fit. Use the cardboard pattern for laying out the curves at the bottom of the end pieces and cut the curves on the power jig saw.

Step No. 5 - The Handle. The jig saw is a real help in the construction of the handle. Bore a ½-in. hole in each corner of the cut-out portion, insert a saw blade in one hole, and saw out the grip part (Fig. 16). Next cut out the outside curve. Return to the drum Bander and smooth all curved edges. A smooth finish is important.

Step No. 6 - Assembly. The handle is fastened to the top strip by screws from beneath, as indicated. Glue the hopper with high grade liquid glue or flake hide glue. The work should be allowed to set between clamps until the glue is hard.

Step No. 7 - Dowel Joints. Put the chuck in the lathe, use the correct size auger bit for the dowels (in the case ¼ in.) and, while the power is on, very carefully file the threads off the screw end to prevent the bit from pulling into the wood too fast ; do not, however, remove the point. Locate accurately all centers of all holes and bore the holes in the lathe as illustrated in Fig. 15.

Fig. 14 (below). - Callipering a leg in the lathe.

Fig. 12 (above). - Ripping stock to width, the guard being removed for clearness.

Fig. 13 (in circle). - Sanding the joint edge of the foot.

Make sure by careful test that the ½ by 2¾ in. cross brace is exactly the right length to suit the length of the hopper.

Step No. 8 - Assembly. Glue the legs and curved feet first; then glue the cross brace. When dry, this entire bottom unit is fastened to the hopper with screws. Glue a false strip over the center of the hopper to make the leg appear as if it continued all the way up. Next screw the bottom in place and fit the covers and hinges.

Step No. 9 - Tray. On the various machines, work out the tray in the same way as the other parts.

Step No. 10 - Cleaning up. Remove all excess glue with a sharp chisel, cutting where possible across the grain. Sandpaper thoroughly all parts with Nos. ½, 0, and 00 paper, always rubbing with the grain if practicable. Round the corners slightly.

Step No. 11 - Finishing.

There are many ways of finishing mahogany. One requires the use of bichromate of potash, which can be purchased at any drug store. Make a saturated solution of the crystals and water and apply a coat of one part saturated solution and four parts of water. When dry, sandpaper lightly with No. 00 sandpaper; then give an even coat of ready-mixed penetrating mahogany wood stain.

Fig. 15 (above). - Bor-ing the dowel holes. Should holes have to be bored all the way through the stock, a block is bored and fitted over the tailstock spindle to save the bit from damage.

Fig. 16 (at left). - Cutting the inside of the handle on the jig saw is as simple as guiding a sewing machine.

Follow with paste wood filler and finish with several coats of shellac, varnish, or clear lacquer.