The lower deadeyes were probably fastened to the hull by chains, but thin wire (say No. 22 soft) twisted around them with an eye in the lower end is sufficiently good. Each deadeye should sit on the chainwale, and the lower eye should be fastened to the hull about 1 in. below by a round-headed nail, placed in line with the shroud and in line with the other nails.

The forward rigging has no chain-wales. The "chains" are about in. long and made and fastened the same as at the main. There are no deadeyes or chainwales necessary at the mizzen.

For all the rigging it is best to use linen cord, such as fishline; it looks like rope, is not "hairy," and does not stretch and slack with the weather. It should be stained a rich dark brown before use. Three thicknesses will be sufficient; one about as thick as twelve sheets of magazine or thin book paper, another two thirds of that, and the finest half of that again. The latter may be stained a much lighter brown.

There should be 12 main shrouds, but the three forward ones may be omitted. They will, of course, be of the heaviest cord. The first pair (pendants) goes up one side and down the other; the others go around the masthead and down on the same side again, starting with the forward pair and alternating the sides. Cut each pair amply long, make a loop in the middle with a thread binding, slip it over the masthead to the position shown, and, when all are on, bind them firmly on the mast.

The model partly rigged and with masts, shrouds, yards, main  and forestay in place.

Fig. 35. - The model partly rigged and with masts, shrouds, yards, main- and forestay in place.

The first three (forward of the chain-wales) are temporary, and have double blocks in their lower ends, connected with thin cord lanyards to single blocks fastened to the hull with short chains or heavy cords. The others set up by lanyards through deadeyes or hearts to the lower deadeyes. The ends of the shrouds are fastened to their hearts by passing them around with single hitches on top and then lashing with thread around the ends, so that they are all in one line conforming with the sheer of the ship. The centers of the upper deadeyes should be about 1 in. above the lower.

The forward shrouds are rigged exactly the same, but with a shorter drift between the deadeyes. There should be five on a side.

The mizzen shrouds set up with double and single blocks, the forward pair coming to the after end of the chainwales, and the other three aside to staples about % in. below the top of the bulwark, to which they are fastened by thin cord or wire.

The blocks for the rigging, and nearly all the others, are just oblong blocks of wood with holes bored in them and the corners rounded, one hole in each direction, or in the case of double blocks, two holes together in one direction and one in the other. The sizes are determined by the holes that have to be bored in them to take the cord. Keep them as small as possible.

The mainstay should be three parts of the heavy cord twisted together. It starts above the shrouds and has a large heart turned in the other end, to lie abaft the foremast. From there it sets up, with a lanyard, through the forecastle deck to the stem.

The forestay sets up with a smaller heart to the bowsprit.

Model makers will be glad to learn that ratlines would be incorrect for the period. In place of them there is a Jacob's ladder, abaft the mast. This is easily made. First make some 28 steps from slips of wood not more than 1/16 in. square and a bare in. long. Then get a double piece of the thick cord, long enough to reach from the mast top to the poop deck. Starting 1 in. from the loop of this and holding the two parts together, open the strands with a sharp point at 3/8 in. intervals and slip the steps through. When all are in, separate the cords so that the bare ends of the steps are still through each strand, making a tiny ladder. Bind the top and bottorn steps in position with thread. When you are ready to put the top on, pass the loop of this ladder through its square hole and over the mast and fasten the lower ends to staples in the deck so that it is almost upright. A part of the ladder appears in the illustration on the opposite page.

The top must now be made (Fig. 36). Cut a round piece of thin wood 1% in. in diameter. Around this glue a piece of cardboard, so that it flares out as shown and is in. high. This may be painted antique white with red crisscross stripes and may have thin spline moldings top and bottom. It has a hole in the center to fit the mast very snugly where it rests on the rigging. There is another oblong hole abaft this, and three staples are set in the bottom.

The mast top in position on the mainmast directly above the shrouds and mainstay.

Fig. 36. - The mast top in position on the mainmast directly above the shrouds and mainstay.

The top should also be fitted with a top-crane for hoisting up fighting material, such as arrows and stones. The crane is a curved piece of wood nailed to the floor of the mast top, with a pulley or hole in the protruding end. Fasten the top down on the eyes of the rigging as illustrated above with glue and a small nail through to the mast.