It is all right to do model making or other light work on the kitchen table or at a makeshift bench, but sooner or later every amateur mechanic feels the need for a real workbench.

Although not large, the bench1 illustrated in Figs. 10 and 11 will serve ordinary needs for cabinetwork on a small scale, model making, toy building, and household repairs - in fact, all the work that is likely to be carried out by a handy man or an amateur cabinetmaker. In addition, it can be moved from place to place as easily as a piece of furniture. A workbench must be strong and rigid. The errors of the inexperienced home worker in constructing a temporary bench and the later disappointments from inaccurate and unsatisfactory work are too common to be needlessly repeated. After all, it takes nearly as much material and time to make a poor bench as a good one; the difference is chiefly in the design and the care with which the work is done. No really expert mechanical ability is required. Accuracy in taking and working to measurements is necessary for the bench must be square and level, but this requires care rather than skill.

Fig. 10. - Planing at the small cabinet bench. Note how a drawer has been partly drawn out to help support the long board.

1 Working drawings and a list of materials for a Somewhat larger cabinet bench than this are contained in Blueprint No. 15 listed in the Appendix.

The wood to be used depends somewhat upon what your lumber dealer has in stock. It is advisable to use hardwood for the top piece; but, if the bench is not to have excessive use, hard pine or even Douglas fir will last a long time. All parts except the top can well be of soft wood; indeed, it is perhaps better for the beginner not to attempt to make the framework of hardwood. Your lumber dealer will be glad to suggest the most economical and serviceable woods he has on hand for this purpose. Ask his advice.

Fig. 11. - The dimensions of this bench, which is shown in use in Fig- 10, are especially suitable for a small home workshop.

Your order, as you will give it to the lumber dealer, will be practically as follows:

Douglas fir (or equivalent), clear, S4S (that is, surfaced on four sides) - 1 pc. 3 by 3 in. by 12 ft., for legs; 1 pc. 2 by 3 in. by 16 ft., for rails; 1 pc. 1 by 3 in. by 10 ft., for three rails for drawers; 2 pcs. 1 by 1 ½ in. by 12 ft. (or blind-stop) for runs for drawers; 1 pc. 1 by 6 in. by 16 ft., for drawer fronts and backs; 1 pc. 1 by 6 in. by 14 ft., for ends and bottom of tool recess at the back of the bench top.

Maple or birch, clear S4S - I pc. 2 by 14 in.

by 4 ft., and 1 pc. 1 ½ by 2 in. by 8 ft., for the top.

Beaded ceiling, 30 lin. ft., 5/8 by 4 in., for ends and back.

Quarter round, 1 pc. ½ in., for tool trough and legs.

Plywood, pine or poplar, 3 pcs. ¼ by 18 in. by 3 ft., for drawer bottoms.

The thicknesses and widths mentioned are nominal sizes and represent the sizes of the boards before they are dressed at the planing mill. When delivered, 1-in. boards will be a scant 7/8. thick, and the width will be about ¼in. less than that specified.

If the 2 by 3 in. material and the 1 ½ by 2 in. hardwood or any of the other sizes are not in stock, purchase a shorter piece of greater width, from which the required parts can be ripped without much extra labor.

The hardware and metal fittings should be purchased at the same time as the lumber. Some of these may have to be ordered, and it is well to allow time for shipment. The following will be needed:

Twenty-two No. 14 flat-head bright screws, 3 ½ in long, and 8 No. 12, 2¼ in. long.

Sixpenny finishing nails, 1 lb.

Four small iron brackets for fastening bench to floor.

Eight fasteners for fastening top to frame.

Six drawer pulls (wooden ones will do if desired).

Vise, 7-in. jaws, rapid acting, or continuous screw.

Bench stop.

"When the lumber has been delivered, the first step is to cut the pieces roughly to the length in which they will be used. Remember that haste makes waste. It is a wise plan to lay out and label each of the pieces before doing any cutting. This is the cutting list:

Legs, 4 pcs. 3 by 3 by 32 in.

End rails E,4 pcs. 2 by :5 by 18 in.

Hack rails and lower front, rail, 3 pcs. 2 by 3 by 36 in. Other front rails F, 3 pcs. 1 by 3 by 36 in.

Top, G. 1 pc 2 by 14 by 48 in. (probably already cut to size).

End cleats for top, 2 pcs. 1 ½ by 2 by 20 in.

Back edge piece for top, 1 pc. 1 ½ by 2 by 48 in.

Bottom for tool trough, 1 pc. 1 by 6 by 48 in.

Drawer fronts J, 3 pcs. 1 by 6 by 31 in.

Drawer backs H, 3 pcs. 1 by 6 by 30 in.

Drawer ends K, 6 pcs. 1 by 6 by 18 in.

Drawer bottoms L, 3 pcs. 3/8 by 18 by 36 in.

Runs for drawers M, 8 pes. 1 by 2½ by 16 in.

Guides for drawers N, 6 pcs. 1 by 1 by 12½ in.

Ends and back P, 18 pcs. ceiling, 20 in. long.

If you can visualize the work so clearly that you know just what each piece of lumber is for, it is not necessary to cut out all the pieces at once; in fact, a workman of experience probably pays little attention to these suggestions and will prepare only the material for the frame. However, it pays a beginner to lay out the pieces in advance as a safeguard against discovering during the course of the work that some boards have been ruined for their purpose by unwise cutting.