This section is from the book "Wrinkles And Recipes, Compiled From The Scientific American", by Park Benjamin. Also available from Amazon: Wrinkles and Recipes, Compiled From The Scientific American.
Mechanics who want small gig saw blades will find that the steel springs of which hoopskirts are formed will make capital ones of any Lengths; and they vary in width, so as to be suitable tor a variety of uses.
Glue the edge of the plug; put no glue in the hole. By this means the surplus glue is left on the surface, and if the plug does not hit the screw, it will seldom show. Set the heads of brads well in, then pass a sponge of hot water over them, filling the holes with hot water. This brings the wood more to its natural position, and closes by degrees over the head of the plug. When dry, sandpaper off and paint, and the putty will not hit the head of the brad.
An obdurate screw may sometimes be drawn by applying a piece of red-hot iron to the head for a minute or two, and immediately using the screw-driver.
English and American proportions:
Place the pieces in an iron box, and fill in the interstices with iron turnings; close the box, lute the cracks with fire-clay, and heat to a red, allowing the box to cool as slowly as possible. It is a good plan to let the furnace-fires go out and leave the box in the furnace to cool.
Ordinary solder, 2 parts tin and 1 part lead, will flow smoothly on tin when dipped by previously putting salammoniac on the surface to be tinned.
A well-tempered bar-spring will lose much of its elastic strength by filing off a very thin scale from the surface.
The advantage in tensile strength, when holes are drilled in steel rather than punched, is 25.5 per cent.
Apply powdered borax to the weld while heating it in the fire. If the steel is made too hot, it will crack during the hammering process.
Mix 1/4 lb. saltpetre and 1/4 lb. oil of vitriol in 2 gallons hard water; heat the steel to a blood red, and cool in the mixture before welding. Then reheat, in sand, and weld by hammering as usual.
In hardening and tempering steel, a clean charcoal, anthracite, or coked bituminous coal fire is required; such as is fit for taking a forging heat on iron is entirely unfit for hardening purposes. The sulphur contained in the coal combines with the steel to form sulphuret of iron, and ruins its texture.
The colors shown at different temperatures Fahr. are as follows: Very pale yellowish, 430°; pale straw, 450°; yellow, 470°; brown, 4900; mottled brown, 510°; purple, 5300; bright blue, 550°; blue, 5600 ; dark blue, 600°.
(1) Heat it to a red heat, and allow it to cool slowly. (2) Place the steel on a magnet, with the same poles touching the same poles of the magnet, and repeat the operation till total demagnetization has taken place.
 
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