Patterns may be made in two ways: by drafting and by modeling. Drafting is impracticable for the average housewife but invaluable for the professional worker, in that it develops a fine feeling for line. Modeling is the ideal way in which to obtain a pattern, since the lines can be adapted to each figure; but ability to make patterns in this way comes only with long experience in working with patterns and materials. The most practical pattern for the average worker is the commercial one. These patterns are being perfected from year to year. It is now possible to obtain a pattern of almost any size to fit the normal figure. Generally only slight alterations are necessary.

How to buy a commercial pattern.

Only patterns of standard makes which contain very explicit guide charts should be purchased. A waist pattern for a normal figure should be bought by the bust size. If the bust should be abnormally full, it is still necessary to buy the pattern by the bust size and then make the required adjustments. A skirt pattern should be purchased by the hip size, unless the waist is large in proportion to the hips, in which case it should be bought by the waist size.

Before opening a pattern, the directions on the outside of the envelope should be read very carefully, seam allowances being noted and also the marks that are used to indicate the correct placing of the pattern. On opening the envelope, the pieces of the pattern should be looked over and compared with the guide chart. The pieces of the pattern to be used are then selected, any others returned to the envelope.

How to test a commercial pattern.

Using the individual measurements, the pattern may be tested for the size before placing it on the material. If it is necessary to make many changes, it is best to alter the pattern, cut it in cambric or unbleached muslin, and then try it on to see that all the lines are right before cutting it in the material for the garment.

To test the pattern, the back and front should be pinned together along the line of the shoulder seams.

Using the individual measurements, the neck-line is then tested. If it is large, it may be adjusted by raising the neckline slightly.

With the shoulder seam still pinned, the armhole is tested and made approximately the correct size by raising or lowering the waist under the arm and tapering the line to the normal arm-hole. If this does not correct the fault, the under-arm seam may be made deeper.

Simple Adjustments In Commercial Patterns

The accompanying illustrations (Figs. 63-80) will make clear the ordinary adjustments necessary in commercial patterns. For the abnormal figure, the garment must be modeled on the figure after it is basted.