No definite rules can be given for estimating the necessary amount of material for a garment because of the many influencing factors, such as fashion, finish, width, and design of the material.

Fig. 63. - Method of lengthening shirt-waist pattern. The front and back of the waist pattern are generally cut about 2 inches above the waist-line for lengthening. For a figure that is very long from the shoulder to the lower curve of the armhole, the pattern may be lengthened by cutting it from the armhole to the center front. The shirt-waist sleeve may be lengthened in two places if necessary, depending on whether the arm is long from the shoulder to the elbow or from the elbow to the wrist. The sleeve pattern is generally cut about 2 inches above or below the elbow line.

Pieces left from the cutting of the skirt and waist may generally be used for cutting the collars, cuffs, or any small decorations. In' buying expensive material, it is always permissible to take the pattern to the store and quickly place it on the material to get an estimate of the amount necessary. If commercial patterns are used, the amount of material necessary for the making of the garment is generally stated on the outside of the envelope. This amount is often over-generous. Experience soon teaches one the minimum amount of material to buy for a garment.