This section is from the book "A Manual Of Home-Making", by Martha Van Rensselaer. Also available from Amazon: A Manual of Home-Making.
There are two types of sewing machine in use - the automatic, or single-thread, and the lock stitch, or two-thread machine. The single-thread machine makes a chain stitch, which requires about a half more thread than the double-thread machine. The stitch on the former is a very fine, pretty one, and for thin cotton and linen materials it cannot be excelled. The ends of the thread must be fastened to prevent the stitching from ripping out. The two-thread machine, which makes a lock stitch, has a greater variety of uses, as the tension is adjustable to the material which is being used. The threading, operating, and oiling of the machine, and the use of the attachments are all described in the instruction book which accompanies the machine. The following suggestions will be of assistance to those who are unfamiliar with the* operation of the lock stitch machine: (1) Practice treading until it can be done easily and evenly; (2) practice stitching, first on paper before the machine is threaded, then on material, either plain or striped; (3) be able to remove the bobbin, thread it, and replace it, and always draw up the bobbin thread before beginning to stitch; (4) practice threading the machine, and then stitch until good straight lines can be made; (5) to turn a corner, have the needle at its lowest point and use it as a pivot; (6) in removing the work from the machine, have the needle at its highest point, raise the presser foot, and draw the material back and to the left, cut the threads with the thread-cutter or with scissors; (7) where there is no cross stitching, always draw the ends of the threads to the wrong side and tie them; (8) good stitching depends on several factors: (a) Correct length of stitch: The length should conform to the material. Heavy cloth requires a longer stitch than does a thin material. The length is regulated by a screw, (b) The tension: The tension is also governed by the material. In a perfect tension the bobbin and the spool threads lock in the center of the thickness of the cloth. If the bobbin thread is drawn to the upper side of the cloth as it lies in the machine, the tension is too tight; and if the spool thread is drawn to the lower side, the tension is too loose. The tension is regulated by a screw which turns either from right to left, or from front to back, (c) The needle: The needle should be the correct size to carry the thread which is being used.
* Ext. Circ. 14, Coll. of Agr., Univ. of III.
Be sure that the point is good, and that the needle is set correctly.
 
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