" One Devil Drives out Another"

Deviling is a particular form of cookery that was doubtless devised by some inventive bachelor; at all events, " devils ' are beloved by epicures the world over. What New Yorker does not remember with joy the famous "devils" procurable only in their glory at "Jack's"? There is a subtlety in Jack's concoctions that makes the chefs at Sherry's, Delmon-ico's, Rector's, and Martin's throw up their hands in the face of his incomparable mixture. The " devils " of more than one London club, but particularly the Junior Carlton and the Army and Navy, are famed the world over, while even the Somerset Club in Boston by no means lags behind in the preparation of deviled kidneys.

The distinction between deviling and grilling? Well, grills need not be deviled, but devils MUST be grilled. The proper dressing of a good devil is one of its chief requisites. It must be pungently spiced, hot to the taste, cooked in a sizzling fry-pan, and served smoking hot. Kidneys and chops are especially well adapted to deviling, but anything in the tinned meat line, and sausages also, are improved by the dressing, while rare slices of roast beef and mutton and all sorts of game may be made tempting as well.

JACK'S RECIPE is jealously guarded, but Walter Mac-Queen of the famous " Broiler Club " gives one that is so like it as to be its twin brother. (Are sauces masculine? This one should be, at any rate.) Stir in the chafing dish enough olive oil to flood the bottom, a spoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful of paprika, a little salt and some black pepper. When thoroughly blended, pop in the kidneys or whatever is to be deviled, and if an added zest is required, throw in a few olives and heat thoroughly. A bit of toast or a crusty end off a French loaf and a glass of musty ale add just the proper touch to this Satanic morsel.

INDIAN DEVIL MIXTURE Admiral Ross of the English navy handed down to posterity a recipe for " Indian

Devil Mixture " that is not to be ignored. This is it:

Four tablespoonfuls of cold gravy, one of chutney paste, one of ketchup, one of vinegar, two teaspoonDevils and Grills fuls of made mustard, two of salt and two of butter. Mix these all thoroughly in a soup plate, then heat in the chafer.

DEVILED DUCK is a favorite dish in the menage of a New York bachelor, who always makes it the piece de resistance of his meal. The skin having been removed from a cold roast duck and the bird cut in pieces of a convenient size, he proceeds as follows: The livers are mashed with a spoonful of dry mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a dash of cayenne, to a smooth paste in the blazer, in which two tablespoonfuls of butter have been melting. The same amount of water is added, and finally, a gill of good old Madeira. When this is smoking hot, the pieces of duck are added and left to simmer until smoking hot, too.

"A DEVILED KIDNEY says an English bachelor whose suppers at his Jermyn Street chambers are famous , feasts, " is the most delicious morsel ever enjoyed by an epicure." Sheep's kidneys of course are used, and split in half with the skin and white membrane removed. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when hot throw in the kidneys, dust with salt and pepper and cook quickly. Throw over them a tablespoonful of onion juice, tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce and four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Have your plates hot and the ale tankards brimming. With a bit of bread and some ripe old Stilton to follow, these make a supper fit for a saint or sinner.

DEVILED LOBSTER requires a different treatment. For this, a dash of curry powder is stirred into a paste with some dry mustard, salt, black pepper and olive oil. Spread over the pieces of lobster, then lay them in a dish and in an ounce of melted butter; cook ten minutes if fresh - and no epicure ever wants canned lobster.

A FASHION OF DEVILINGleft-over slices of cold meat that prevails in a bachelor household not far from

Washington Square in New York, is this: The slices are carefully trimmed, then, if cut thick, are scored with a knife. French mustard, pepper, salt, and cayenne are mixed with soft butter to make a paste, then rubbed in the scored slices and grilled.

GRILLED SARDINES are also popular at this studio, and are done by first draining the sardines from oil and removing the skins by rubbing them off. A tablespoon-ful of butter is heated in the chafing dish, and the sardines are laid in this and heated thoroughly before serving on toast or crackers. Toasted Uneeda biscuit make a delightful accompaniment to these. If deviled sardines are wanted, mash the sardines with a silver fork and after sauteing in melted butter or a little of the oil, a generous quantity of tomato ketchup is added, with a dash of tabasco, if wanted very hot, and the other usual seasoning of salt, pepper, etc. A few drops of lemon juice furnish the final touch, as the mixture is served piping hot on toasted crackers.

DEVILED LIVER makes a fine morsel for a snack or even for a sandwich filling. Take three pounds of uncooked liver and chop together with a quarter pound of salt pork. Mix well with it half a pint of bread crumbs, three tablespoonfuls of salt, a teaspoon-ful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of mace and cloves. Put in a covered dish and set in a kettle of cold water. Cover the kettle and place on the fire to boil two hours. When done, let the steam escape by removing the cover before setting.

DEVILED EGGS speaking warmly, are not half bad and de- serve to be better known. Put a large spoonful of butter in the blazer and stir into it half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one of mushroom and one of Worcestershire sauce. When hot, put in four hard boiled eggs, nicely quartered, salted and peppered. When heating, make some toast, spread with butter and anchovy paste, and serve the eggs on this and see if it isn't " just the mustard."

One more bachelor, who remains modestly incognito, gives herewith, his famous rule for deviled bones, to wit:

DEVILED BONES. Melt in a chafer two tablespoonfuls of but-ter, add I tablespoon each of Chili sauce, Worcestershire sauce, Walnut catsup, I tablespoonful made mustard and a dash of cayenne. Take the drumsticks, second joints, and wings of a cooked chicken and cut small gashes in each piece. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and cook in the seasoned butter until well browned. Then add half a cup of hot stock in which the chicken was cooked, simmer five minutes and sprinkle with chopped parsley the last thing before serving.

DEVILED CRABS as cooked in a famous San Francisco restau-rant, the Techau Tavern, will appeal to most people strongly. Two tablespoonfuls of flour was braided into two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and two-thirds of a cup of white stock was added to make a sauce, into which was stirred smoothly the yolks of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, salt and pepper, one-fourth cup finely chopped mushrooms, and a cup of chopped crab meat. After cooking this three minutes, a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley was sifted over. The mixture was then cooled and the crab shells, which had been washed and trimmed, were brushed with melted butter, filled with the crab meat and sprinkled with stale bread crumbs that had been mixed with a little melted butter. Then the shells were popped into a hot oven and baked a golden brown, after having scored the tops in three creases with a case knife.

Fresh pork and new wine kill a man before his time."

BROILED PORK CUTLETS. If ever you've lived in the land of " hog and hominy," you won't despise a dish of

"fresh po'k' to set before your guests.

Ever try this? Cut two pounds of fresh pork loin into flat pieces of a portion each. In a deep dish, make a marinade of a tablespoonful or more of vinegar, a little chopped tarragon, if you're an epicure, a clove of chopped garlic and a chopped green pepper (seeds removed). Lay the pork in this for two hours, then broil and serve on hills of mashed potato. This was used in the South " befo' de wah," and I reckon you-all '11 relish it some cold night when the wind is whistling round the corners.

CREOLE GRILLADES. Even a bachelor may tire of a porterhouse occasionally and sigh for a change. Then is the time for him to test the Grillades, which they do this way in New Oleans: Cut a thick steak - tender-loin will do - into pieces about four inches square. Pour a little olive oil over each piece and let stand a few minutes, then broil over hot coals if you have them, otherwise under a fine hot gas flame just enough to sear the outside. Then place in a baking pan, sprinkle with one chopped onion, one green pepper, a table-spoonful of tomato sauce, juice of a lemon and a quarter cupful of oil. Cover closely and when brown, turn. Add a bit of hot water to the gravy, boil up and serve.

HOT BIRDS. Suppose you've just seen a Bernard Shaw

play; isn't that an excuse for something to follow, a bit out of the ordinary? Well, while the champagne is nicely cooling in its nest of shaved ice, you will let one of your guests read Shaw's " On Going to Church " to the others while you are cutting up three or four pigeons in four pieces each and marinating them in a half cup of olive oil for ten minutes. Drain the oil into the blazer and while " Jeems" is laying the plates - I take it you're not an impecunious bachelor - you are chopping an onion, a clove of garlic, a green pepper and some parsley. Fry in the oil until transparent, then add the pieces of pigeon and sear them all over. This is preliminary. Next get out the nice brown French casserole and put all of this in it together with a can of tomatoes, salt, paprika and cayenne to taste, a tablespoonful of finely minced salt pork, half a cupful of sliced olives, and a can of bouillon or a pint of good stock. Cover tightly and simmer an hour; it takes time, but it's worth the waiting. Five minutes before serving, moisten a tablespoon of browned flour with a little of the gravy, stir in and when it thickens it's ready. Pass with this, grated Parmesan cheese, or, if you're sure they all care for it, sprinkle over the casserole while it's on the fire. It's as red as Shaw's whiskers and as fine as " Candida," while it will disappear almost as quickly as did " Mrs. Warren's Profession."