Kneading is the process of pressing or working the dough in such a manner that the flour and water may be thoroughly mixed, and the yeast be so evenly distributed that the fermentation may be equal through the whole mass. It may be done by cutting or chopping, either with the hand or machinery; but there is nothing that gives the fine, even grain to bread so well as hand-kneading; and no surer test of the proper consistency of dough than that given by the sense of touch. There are some kinds of milk bread and rolls which are very good without it; but water bread should always be kneaded. It is often done in the mixing-bowl, by drawing the dough over from the side and pressing it down in the centre, turning the bowl with the other hand; but it is more effectually accomplished on a bread-board. In Spain the bakers knead the bread with such force that the palms of the hands and the second joints of the fingers are covered with corns; but strength and force are not so essential to good kneading as a peculiar and dexterous handling of the dough. The most approved process is the following: -

Sprinkle the board with flour, and leave a little in the corner to lay your hands upon. Scrape the dough from the bowl, and toss it over with the knife that it may be well floured. Flour the hands; then, with the fingertips, draw the dough farthest from you up and over toward the centre, letting the ball of the hand meet the dough, and then press down firmly, giving the dough somewhat of a rolling motion, that it may not stick to the board. Repeat this motion until the dough is in a long narrow shape, then turn it at right angles, and draw up, fold, and press down again; and continue this process until the dough is smooth, elastic, fine, and even-grained. Dust the board and the palms of the hands with flour often, but only slightly. Should the dough stick, lift it quickly, and always scrape off what has adhered to the board before dusting again, that the board may be kept smooth. But do not let it stick; keep it in constant motion. Do not knead hard enough to break into the dough, nor let the finger-tips pierce the smooth crust that soon forms under proper kneading. Use the fingers merely in drawing the dough over, and keep them up and out of it when pressing with the ball of the hand. Use both hands in the same manner, or draw up and press with the right, and turn the ball of dough with the left, that all parts may receive an equal pressure. When enough of this smooth, soft texture has been formed all through the dough, it can be worked for some time without even a dusting of flour. After a little experience, if care be taken in the beginning, and only a little flour added at each dusting, when the dough is sufficiently kneaded, the hands, the apron, and the board will be clean, and the dough of an even, elastic consistency, springing up instantly as you toss or pound or punch into it. The habit of mixing with the hands, and rubbing off little wads of dough from the fingers into the whole mass, should be avoided, especially toward the last of the process. There is no mechanical operation in cooking more fascinating than the deft, quick touches a natural kneader gives to a mass of dough. Young ladies with pretty hands can display them there quite as well as with embroidery, etc.; but the rings and bracelets should be left in the jewel-case. The stitches in tight dress sleeves are not "warranted not to break" during this process. Perfect freedom for the muscles of the arms and chest is absolutely essential to the making and kneading of bread.