This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
Epinard. Spinat.
No. 1445. - Spinach is a hardy annual plant, and is said to be of Asiatic origin. The leaves and young stems are the only parts of the plant that are used, being extremely wholesome and palatable, and retaining their bright green color after being cooked. The leaves are smooth and oval-oblong shaped, though varying in the different varieties. Spinach is prepared in various ways and is eaten with almost every kind of meat. The expressed juice is used to impart a greenish color to certain dishes. It affords but little nourishment, but when eaten freely, is mildly laxative, diuretic and cooling.
No. 1446. - It should be planted in very rich ground. Sow it a foot apart, in drills, and commence thinning out the plants when the leaves are an inch wide. When they are two or three inches wide, they will be fit to gather. This is done by cutting them up with a knife entirely to the bottom, or by only cropping the large outer leaves. The root and heart should remain to shoot out again according to the season.
No. 1447. - This is a winter variety, and is considered superior to the Prickly Spinach which is in general cultivation during the winter season. The seeds are sown about the last of August, in drills one foot apart and nearly an inch deep. The Prickly-seeded Spinach is cultivated and used the same way as this variety.
No. 1448. - This is a fine productive variety, having short stems and large leaves that are rounded and of a deep green color tinged with blue.
No. 1449. - The leaves are pointed, of medium size, deep green, thick and fleshy.
No. 1450. - This variety should be sown early in spring, but it soon runs to seed, particularly in warm, dry weather. The leaves are large, round, thick and fleshy.
No. 1451. - This is a hardy perennial plant that is prepared in the same way as the common Spinach. The leaves are arrow-shaped, smooth, deep green, undulated on the borders, and mealy on the under surface.
No. 1452. - Remove the large stems, wash the leaves in plenty of cold water, and drain them in a colander. Then put them in a saucepan containing some lightly salted boiling water and, with a wooden spoon, keep the Spinach under the water, letting it boil over a brisk fire until cooked. Then immerse it in cold water, drain it, and press out all of the water.
No. 1453. - Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452. Let it remain entire, or, if desired, chop it coarsely and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper and, when it is thoroughly warmed, serve it plain, or garnish it with slices of boiled bacon.
No. 1454. - Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452; then chop it finely and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; stir it well with a wooden spoon, and when it is thoroughly warmed, add a few spoonfuls of veal gravy. Then serve it, having the dish garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, or small pieces of buttered toast cut in fancy shapes.
 
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