This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
No. 1483. - The skin is hard, and of a pale yellow color when perfectly ripe. The flesh is white, tender and succulent, even until the seeds are ripe, and may be used in any stage of its growth. It will keep through the winter, when perfectly ripe, if stored in a dry place out of the reach of frost.
No. 1484. - This kind is superior to many of the other varieties for pies and culinary purposes.
No. 1485. - This is a hardy productive variety, that ripens with great certainty, and suffers less from insects than the other sorts. It keeps well.
No. 1486. - This variety is hardy, prolific and large, and keeps well.
No. 1487. - A roundish, somewhat flattened, Japanese variety, strongly ribbed. The skin is warted, and deep green in color when young, changing to a dull yellow. The flesh is of an orange-yellow color, finely grained; dry and sweet.
No. 1488. - Peel the Squash, cut it in scallops, and put them in a saucepan containing sufficient water to cover them. Add a little salt, cover the pan, and set it on a brisk fire to boil. When they are cooked, drain them, and then rub them through a colander. Then put them back in the saucepan, season with salt and pepper, add a piece of butter, mix them well and let them get thoroughly warmed. The Squash may also be steamed the same as potatoes.
Note. - All varieties of Squash are prepared in the same manner.
No. 1489. - Select two dozen small, young, and tender Squash. Cut off the top of each and scoop out the center, leaving the shell half an inch stick. Parboil them for three minutes, then drain them on a napkin with the open side at the bottom.
Now chop two white onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Cut the Squash that was scooped out in small pieces, put them in the saucepan with a little broth, and let them cook until the broth is reduced to a glaze. Then add one quarter of a pound of roast lamb cut in small pieces, one quarter of a pound of rice that has been cooked in broth, and a little finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and add four spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Mix the whole well together over the fire. Fill the Squash with this stuffing, put them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and moisten them with broth. Set them in the oven to cook slowly and, when nicely browned, dish them up. Pour a teaspoonful of reduced plain Tomato sauce over each Squash and serve separately a bowl of Tomato sauce.
No. 1490. - Prepare the Squash as in No. 1489. Chop two large onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter or sweet oil and fry them lightly. Then add the Squash and, when the moisture is reduced, add two handfuls of fresh bread crumbs. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a little finely chopped parsley and the yolks of four raw eggs and mix the whole well together. Stuff the Squash with this preparation, sprinkle bread crumbs over them and put a piece of butter on top of each one. Put them in a buttered baking pan, bake them slowly in the oven until nicely browned, and serve them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce.
No. 1491. - Prepare, stuff and bake the Squash as in No. 1490. Then let them get cold. Now peel them and cut them in halves. Roll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. Then fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin with a brown Italian sauce separate.
No. 1492. - Peel half a dozen Squash, cut them in scallops half an inch thick, throw them into boiling water for three minutes, and then drain them. Put them into an earthen bowl, season with salt and pepper, and let them remain there for one hour, tossing them over occasionally. Then dry them on a napkin, roll them in flour, fry them in hot lard, and serve them on a napkin.
No. 1493. - Peel one dozen Squash, cut them in quarters, trim them, and parboil them for three minutes. Then drain them dry, arrange them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and moisten them with broth to cover. Season with salt and pepper, add a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf, and cook them on a brisk fire. When the broth is reduced to one-quarter, the Squash will be cooked. Then take them out, strain the broth into another saucepan, skim off the grease, and add two spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Then add the Squash with a little finely-chopped parsley, and serve.
No. 1494. - Peel half a dozen small, young and tender Squash. Cut them in quarters, trim the edges, and parboil them for three minutes. Then drain and dry them, and put them into a flat saucepan with some clarified butter. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly until nicely glazed. Dish them up, and add to the gravy in the saucepan a small piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon and some finely-chopped parsley. Stir it well, off of the fire, until the butter is melted; then pour it over the scallops, and serve them hot.
 
Continue to: