A souffle is in reality a baked omelet in which the eggs have been beaten separately. The air which has been incorporated into the egg whites causes the mixture to puff up. The general impression that they are difficult to make gives this dish a certain distinction. However, there is no reason why anyone should not be able to make a perfect souffle' if the oven is carefully managed.

Souffles should go directly from the oven to the table, and it is a wise precaution to cover the souffle while carrying it to the table so that the cooler air of the room will not make it fall. The plain omelet souffle is the most difficult to make. Those made with a cooked foundation (a thick white sauce) do not fall so readily. The whites of eggs must be beaten until filled with air and should be folded into the mixture, not stirred or beaten. The souffle* is then placed in a moderate oven, where the heated air expands and puffs up the whole mixture. The baking is continued until the air cells are hardened enough to support its weight and the souffle* must be served at once before the enclosed air cools, which causes the souffle to collapse.

When sufficiently baked the souffle will feel dry and firm, like a sponge cake. Deep ring molds are very attractive for vegetable souffles. They may then be turned out on a serving dish and the center filled with creamed fish, sweetbreads, mushrooms or chicken. The vegetables are always previously cooked and either mashed or put through a puree strainer.

Souffles may be divided into two classes, savory and sweet souffles. The savory souffle offers a variety of luncheon and dinner dishes in which many left-overs can be utilized. The savory souffles can be made entirely of eggs and vegetables or may have a thick white sauce as a foundation, making them much more substantial and also easier to bake. The fruit souffles are made of eggs and fruit pulp.

All souffles, whether sweet or savory, should be served with a sauce of some kind. When mixtures contain a number of eggs beaten separately, they are usually dry, and need a sauce to furnish moisture.

Bake souffles in an ungreased dish (except when using a ring mold where it is removed from the pan), set in a pan of hot water, keeping water below the boiling point. Serve from the dish in which it was baked.

Timbales offer a very satisfactory way to use small quantities of cooked food. They are really a savory custard. Timbales are cooked by poaching and are unmolded before serving.

Spinach Souffle Or Ring

2 tablespoons of butter or substitute.

2 tablespoons flour.

1/2 cup milk.

1 cup finely chopped spinach, or spinach puree.

1/2 cup grated or finely cut cheese. 1/2 teaspoon salt. 1/8 teaspoon paprika. Few grains of nutmeg or mace. 3 eggs separated.

Melt butter, add flour, mix until smooth, and cook until frothy; then add cold milk, stir constantly, until quite thick; add cheese, spinach, beaten yolks and seasonings; fold in stiffly beaten egg whites, pour into a baking dish, set dish in hot water and bake in a moderate oven about 30 minutes.

Very attractive if baked in a ring mold and the center filled with creamed sweetbreads, shellfish, or chicken. If the souffle" is to be unmolded it must be baked in a buttered form. Before unmolding let stand a few seconds after removing from the oven. To test run a sharp knife through the center. If it comes out clean, the souffle" is cooked. If not cooked sufficiently, the souffle" will fall. Any vegetable may replace the spinach.