This section is from the book "Every-Day Dishes And Every-Day Work", by E. E. Kellogg. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Use only tender plants or the tender leaves of the older stalks, and be sure to have enough, as spinach shrinks greatly. A peck is not too much for a family of four or five.
Pick it over very carefully, trim off the roots and decayed leaves, and all tough, stringy stalks, and the coarse fibers of the leaves, as those will not cook tender until the leaves are overdone. Wash in several waters, lifting it from one pan to another, that it may be freed from sand and grit. Shake each bunch well Spinach is best cooked in its own juices; this may be accomplished by cooking it in a double boiler; or if placed in a pot and slowly heated, it will in a short time yield sufficient juice to cook itself. It must, however, be stirred frequently at first, to prevent burning; cover closely, and cook till tender. The time required will vary from twenty minutes to an hour or more. If water is used in the cooking, have a half kettleful boiling when the spinach is put in, and continue to boil rapidly until the leaves are perfectly tender , then drain in a colander, press with the back of a plate to extract all water, chop very fine, and either serve with lemon juice as a dressing, or add a half cup of sweet cream with or without a teaspoonful of sugar. Boil up once, stirring constantly, and serve very hot. A garnish of sliced boiled eggs is often employed with this vegetable.
 
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