It is the sauce and the parsley that transforms the ordinary fritter into an orlie, but brown meat cannot properly be treated thus, though it often is, and if not absolutely correct makes a particularly nice dish.

Next come papillotes or cases, and these are a very good way of using up remains of any butcher's meat. For these have the meat of a medium thickness, and cut two slices of fat bacon rather thinly for each piece of meat. Now have ready some heart or oblong - shaped pieces of white paper previously oiled and dried, and on each of these lay a slice of the bacon, then the meat seasoned with pepper and salt, and then the other slice of bacon, fold the paper over, twisting the edges tightly together, and broil for twelve to fifteen minutes over a clear fire. Serve in the papers and send to table a boat of any good sauce to taste, according to the meat used, with them. If liked a d'Uxelles mixture may be spread on the bacon before laying in the meat, in which case when cooked the dish will be known as boeuf (or any other meat) en papillotes a la d'Uxelles; if slices of chicken are used for this dish, put a slice of tongue and a slice of chicken between the slices of bacon, and just before twisting up the paper pour in a spoonful of rather thick tomato puree and finish up as before.

This method can evidently be varied to taste.

Closely connected with fritters, Ac, are croquettes and rissoles. For these prepare a farce thus: mince finely the remains of a cold roast fowl, add to it half its bulk of finely minced ham or tongue, and the same of mushrooms, or a minced truffle or two if handy; stir over the fire to a smooth paste 1 oz. each of sifted flour and butter, and when this is perfectly blended, stir in a gill of cream (or new milk) or stock, or equal parts of either, with a finely.minced spray or two of parsley, one-third of a finely grated lemon rind, a squeeze of lemon juice, a grain of cayenne, and pepper and salt to taste, and when this is all mixed add in the minced chicken, etc., and stir it all over the fire till thoroughly blended; then turn it out on a dish to cool. When cold, shape portions of this into balls, cutlets, corks, or any shape you please, roll it in beaten egg, and then in finely sifted breadcrumbs and fry a golden brown in hot fat (exactly as for fritters). Or have ready some puff paste rolled out very thin, and either put little balls on half of a sheet of this as in illustration, Fig. 13, cover down the remaining half of the paste, and stamp it out x with a fluted cutter as in Figs. 14 and 15 and fry in plenty of hot fat as before.

If preferred, you may roll out the paste as before, stamp it out in rounds with the fluted cutter, place & teaspoonful of the mince on one half of the paste, folding the other half over, and pinching the moistened edges well together and giving the little croquette a half moos shape; it can then be fried as it is, or dipped in broken-up vermicelli and fried. Drain thoroughly from all fat, and serve piled up with a garnish of fried parsley. Any meat can be used for these, bat be careful to vary the sauce and the seasonings, etc., according to the meat used. Another way of serving cooked meat is en pannequets, as French cookery books call it. For this prepare ordinary pancakes, being careful to have them pretty thin; lay these pancakes out flat, and spread on each about two tablespoonsful of the rissole farce (having this a trifle more moist than for ordinary use), and roll each pancake up. Now cut them into neat lengths, place them in the frying basket and fry a delicate golden brown. Serve well drained, with fried parsley.

Another way of serving these pancakes is to cut each up into oblongs two inches wide by three inches long, spread a very thin slice of parboiled bacon on each (mind this is smaller than the pancake), spread the farce on this, roll it up, arrange them side by side on a buttered baking tin, brush them over with beaten egg, strew breadcrumbs over them and bake in the oven till of a golden brown.

Omelettes fourrees are another very favourite method of serving cooked meat. Prepare an omelet in the usual way, and have ready any nice fish, flesh, or fowl, minced and heated in any good and rather thick sauce to taste; just as the omelet is ready to serve, slip one or more good spoonsful of this mince according to size, into the omelet, fold it over and serve.

Seallopped Meat, again, makes a pretty and inexpensive entree. For this you require some shells, either plate or china, though at a pinch paper cases oiled and dried will serve. Butter the shells generously, then lay in whatever meat you wish to use, minced fairly fine, and moistened with good sauce of any kind to taste to ensure its being nice and moist. Then sprinkle the surface with savoury breadcrumbs (i. e., crumbs mixed with salt, pepper, minced parsley, minced chives, minced mushrooms, or grated cheese to taste), and bake in the oven till the crumbs on the top are browned. A very pretty version of this dish, where shells are not available, are cassolettes meringuees. For these take little paper or china cases previously oiled and dried, and nearly fill them with any delicate and rather moist mince available; have ready some whites of egg beaten to a stiff froth and seasoned with coralline pepper, minced parsley, grated cheese, etc., to taste, and with a bag and plain pipe cover each of these rockily with the egg-white meringue and set it in the oven" till the meringue is crisp and of a pretty fawn colour.

Needless to say, these admit of many variations.

For instance, if you use a chicken mince, lay a bearded and seasoned oyster on the top of each case before covering with the meringue as before; with minced game a piece of foie gras or a small truffle may be used; or the case may have a layer of thick mushroom puree, the. mince on this, and lastly the meringue.

Turnovers, again, or patties, are very easily made if any scraps of pastry are available. Roll the paste out fairly thin and cut it into squares, place a thin slice of bacon on each square, and a spoonful of any mince on this, then fold the paste over diagonally, pinching the moistened" edges of the paste well together, and bake. These can be eaten hot or cold, and are a very popular dish for shooting lunches, by the way. Some cooks mix a little cooked potato and onion with the mince and then call these Cornish pasties, though they are not, these properly requiring raw meats. Tiny patties of puff paste can also be used as cases for any rich savoury mince.

Paupiettes are another pretty form of rechauffe. For these cut rather thin slices of any kind of meat, spread them with any farce to taste, from d'Uxelles or veal stuffing to foie gras, pinch them lightly together, lay them on a buttered baking-sheet, dust them with flour, and bake till nicely browned, and serve with any nice sauce to taste. These paupiettes, like rissoles and suchlike things, depend greatly on their flavourings, and if success is to be attained this must be carefully studied. For instance, with white meat use veloute or bechamel for heating the mince, season with grated lemon rind, mushrooms, a tiny dash of nutmeg, and parsley, or use veal stuffing; if brown meat is used, take rather strongly flavoured brown or espagnole sauce, onion, boned and minced anchovy, and even a suspicion of Worcester sauce if liked.

The above will give a general idea of the methods of serving up cold meat as practised by good cooks, who, please remember, are all but invariably the most economical in the long run. In England an idea obtains that made dishes are necessarily insipid and inevitably extravagant. If the preceding recipes are intelligently and carefully followed, the result will certainly not be liable to the complaint of tastelessness. Whether they are extravagant or not will depend entirely on the housekeeper and the cook. For instance, if to make a dish of rissoles you insist on opening a tin of button mushrooms, or buying a lb. of fresh truffles, you certainly will not err on the side of economy. But if you once manage to make a cook understand the art of saving all her odds and ends you will be astonished to find how far these scraps will go in making tasty dishes. I have given a specimen in the emince au choufleur gratine, and almost every good housekeeper can give similar examples. One of the prettiest specimens of this dainty economy is the egg cutlet, for which you require a hard boiled egg, a slice or so of bacon left over from the morning's breakfast, a gill of melted butter from the previous night's dinner, a spoonful or two of cooked peas, asparagus cut up, or mush-rooms, according to what you have over, and a little cold sweetbread, brains, or even tongue, cut into dice.

This is all stirred together over the fire till well blended, then left to cool, and when cold, shaped into cutlets in your well-floured hands, dipped in beaten egg, and then in sifted breadcrumbs, and lastly fried in boiling fat till a golden brown, and served with fried parsley. This dish was once prepared by Mrs. A. B. Marshall at one of her lessons to show how scraps could be utilized (a subject, by the way, which she is very keen to impress on her pupils). She simply gathered up the scraps left over after an Entire Dinner Lesson, a perfect gallimaufry of odds and ends, and in about ten minutes turned out a dish of the daintiest little cutlets imaginable, fit for the most recherche lunch or breakfast. But if this kind of dainty housewifery is to be practised, it cannot be too firmly impressed on the cook that every scrap must be saved, and, moreover, saved tidily. Never stint your cook in the matter of larder plates; these can be cheaply purchased at any cheap china warehouse, and well repay their first cost.

Scraps of vegetables, each on a separate saucer, neatly freed from grease and sauce, can be comfortably used again; but if huddled all on one plate, piled one on the other, they look, and indeed are, fit for nothing but that last refuge of the bad cook, the pig-trough. I can assert from experience that honest, respectable cooks can soon be taught this neatness, and are very quick in learning to utilise scraps daintily, especially when commendation is freely bestowed on their successful efforts.