To the quantity of Bearnaise sauce given above add half a gill of good tomato puree, with an ounce of very strong chicken stock; add a small teaspoonful of finely minced parsley and a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, and use with fillets or cutlets of any meat or poultry.

These butter sauces, again, are many.

Lastly, there are cold sauces. For brown chaufroix sauces, roughly speaking, an excellent result may be obtained by placing in a pan a gill of any rich brown sauce, with half a gill each of wine and very strong stock, dissolving in this as it boils from ⅓oz. to ½oz. of best leaf gelatine, skimming it well, and allowing it to reduce a fourth part; then sieve and use as it cools. Manifestly this chaufroix can be varied according to the sauce and the wine used. For instance, brown sauce and sherry or Madeira; espagnole and Madeira or champagne; Richelieu with Chablis or port; Perigeux Sauce and Burgundy; Salmi sauce and port, etc., can all be used with excellent effect according to the meat to be masked, glazing all of these with strong, clarified, and just liquid stock, in which ⅓oz. to ½oz. of gelatine to the half pint has been dissolved.

White chaufroix may be made in exactly the same way, only using white stock and cream instead of the wine, and glaze. A delicate red chaufroix is produced by dissolving gelatine in a rich-coloured tomato sauce and using it in the same way; whilst a very delicate green chaufroix may be made by adding ¼oz. of gelatine and a drop or two of green colouring to the Creme de concombres previously given amongst the white sauces.

Of course, where aspic may be used with the sauces, you stir together a gill of any good sauce to half a pint of aspic jelly, let it reduce a little, and use when setting. Then, of course, en aspic must be added to the name of the dish. But aspic is not to be recommended for the finest white sauces, with which the acidity of the vinegar is apt to disagree.

As a fact, almost all the delicate creme sauces previously given may be turned into chaufroix by the help of fine leaf gelatine, and are generally delicious, if stood on ice till perfectly cold, without being actually frozen, as are some of the more strongly flavoured ones.