This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Remove the thin skin covering the brains also the fibres. Lay the brains in fresh water for several hours, carefully changing it at intervals, then put them in a saucepan, cover with water, and season with salt, whole pepper, chopped onions, thyme, bay leaf, and a little vinegar. Boil, then let simmer for twenty minutes; drain, and cut each one into twelve equal-sized pieces. Arrange them on a buttered and bread-crumbed dish, cover with an aurora sauce (No. 430), adding to it for each brain the chopped. whites of four hard boiled eggs; and some chopped up parsley. Set the four hard yolks on a sieve, and with a spoon press them through over the brains. Spread some butter on top, and brown in a hot oven.
Prepare the brains the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); drain and dress them on a hot dish and cover with the following sauce: Have a pint of veloute (No. 415), four hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with six ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of English mustard; pass the whole through a fine sieve, and add chopped and blanched chervil, chives, tarragon, and shallot, also a little spinach or vegetal green. Season properly, then add just when serving, a few chopped gherkins; pour this sauce over the brains.
Soak some brains in cold water for two hours, remove the sangineous skin enveloping them, and lay them in a saucepan to cook; cover with water, add a dash of vinegar, some sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic, and whole peppers; cook without boiling, letting them barely simmer on the side of the range half an hour; drain on a napkin and cut them lengthwise in four, range in a circle on a dish, and fill up the empty space with mushrooms added to a poulette sauce (No. 527), pouring a part of it over the brains. Garnish around with triangle-shaped croutons of bread fried in clarified butter, and serve the remainder of the sauce separately.
Have the brains prepared and cooked as for the aurora (No. 1479). Brown in a pan either with butter or lard, three dozen small raw onions, seasoning with salt and a pinch of sugar; when of a fine color, put them into a small sautoir with some broth (No. 194a), and finish cooking, letting the liquid fall several times to a glaze; drain the brains, wipe dry, and dress them triangle-shaped on a dish; between each brain set a few of the onions, a cluster of stoned and stuffed olives, and one of small mushroom heads. Cover the brains with a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with red wine, and finished with a little anchovy butter (No. 569); garnish around with trussed crawfish.
Cook the brains and finish them the same as for aurora (No. 1479); drain, wipe, and cut them in thick slices; roll each of these in flour. Put some melted butter into a sautoir, let boil and purify well, and when it begins to blacken, add the pieces of brain; as soon as they are colored on one side, turn them over, and let them do likewise on the other, then lift them out without breaking and lay them on a napkin; wipe and then dress the slices on a well buttered white sauce (No. 562) into which has been mixed lemon juice and chopped parsley.
Have the brains prepared and cooked the same as for the poulette (No. 1481): when done drain and dress them in the center of a very hot dish; strew over with chopped parsley, salt and pepper and baste with black butter (No. 565); put a dash of vinegar into the pan and pour it over the brains with the butter; both butter and vinegar must be strained through a fine sieve.
Skin some brains, that is, remove carefully the membrane that covers them without breaking the brain; soak them in cold water for two hours, then plunge them into boiling water only to stiffen; drain and cook them for twelve minutes in a good white wine mirepoix (No. 419) and arrange them on a dish. Cover with a tomatoed Bearnaise sauce (No. 433):
Blanch the calves' brains the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); divide each one in four parts and dress every piece on a separate oval-shaped slice of bread that has been fried in butter; place them on a hot dish and cover either with Venetian sauce (No. 555), or Hollandaise vert pre sauce (No. 477).
 
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