This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Modern Hollandaise is made as follows: Melt two pounds of butter in a saucepan without heating it too much, then let it settle, and pour off the top. Beat twelve egg-yolks in a saucepan with half a pint of water. Set the saucepan on a slow fire, and stir the contents continuously with a whisk; and as soon as the eggs become consistent incorporate into them the butter previously melted, little by little, some salt and mignonette; or else a dash of cayenne instead of the mignonette, and besides this the juice of four lemons. If the sauce be too thick add a little water, and then pass it through a tammy (No. 159). Put the sauce in the mixing pot (Fig. 171); keep it in a bain-marie, not too hot, until needed.
Prepare one pint of thick bearnaise sauce (No. 433). and incorporate into it three gills of well reduced tomato sauce (No. 549), then strain the whole through a very fine sieve, and dilute it with two gills of champagne.
Put into a saucepan two ounces of fresh butter and two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallots; let fry colorless with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; cook together for five minutes, then moisten with two gills of tomato extract, a gill of meat glaze (No. 401). three gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414), a pinch of powdered sugar, a pint of veloute (No. 415), chopped parsley and lemon juice.
Cook some tomatoes for half an hour; strain them through a coarse sieve, put them on a piece of muslin over a vessel to retain all the falling liquid, and reduce this liquid to a thick syrup.
After reducing a good bechamel sauce (No. 409), stir into it incessantly a few spoonfuls of mushroom sauce (No. 393) and some raw cream, also essence of fish (No. 388), should this sauce be needed for fish; but if otherwise then use a few spoonfuls of good chicken stock (No. 195) reduced to a half-glaze. When the sauce becomes succulent and creamy, pour it into a small saucepan, beat it smooth while heating it, and finish it off of the fire with some butter and grated parmesan cheese. This sauce is used for dishes that are bread-crumbed and for meats baked by a salamander. Its delicacy forbids it being boiled.
Turn and wash half a pound of small mushroom heads (No. 118); put them into a saucepan with the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, some salt and a gill of water. When they are cooked, after three minutes, drain, and put the liquid back into a saucepan with a pint of veloute (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414), either fat or lean according to its requirements, then reduce and despumate the sauce. Just when ready to serve incorporate into it two ounces of butter and the cooked mushrooms.
 
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