This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
The illustration (Fig. 299), represents this remove of salmon as it should be dresssed.
Choose a fresh salmon weighing from twelve to sixteen pounds, suppress the head and about eight inches of meat from the thin tail end; divide the remainder into two equal parts cutting it through the thickness in the center, split each part in two lengthwise pieces leaving half of the large bone adhering to each part; it is one of these half slices that is shown in the illustration. Tie these four halves together to give them their primitive shape; lay the fish on a grater of a small fish kettle with an abundance of salt, let macerate for one hour, then cover with cold water and two gills of vinegar, add simply a large bunch of parsley, then heat the liquid while skimming, and at the first boil remove the kettle to the side of the fire so that the liquid quivers only for thirty to forty minutes. A quarter of an hour before serving, drain off the fish on the grater and with the tip of a knife cut a slit in the middle of each quarter of the width of three inches on the whole length of the skin, in a straight line, so as to remove all the central part. sup-press also the sanguineous crust covering the flesh, leaving them bare.
Wash the fish in its own broth, then rub the surfaces with a piece of fresh butter or red butter (No. 580). Slide the fish on a long dish, the bottom being supplied with a perforated board, and covered over with a folded napkin. Send to the table with a dishful of three-quarter inch potato balls boiled in salted water and a sauce-boat of genevoise sauce (No. 469).

Fig. 299.
Soak some salt salmon for twelve hours, changing the water several times, then boil it in acidulated water adding a handful of parsley branches. Have a bechamel sauce (No. 409), and just when ready to serve incorporate into it pats of fresh butter; add some nasturtiums and garnish around with small crab croquettes (No. 879).
Boil over a slow fire some fresh, mellow smoked salmon, then dress it with the following sauce: Chop up finely two shallots, place them in a saucepan with half a pint of fish essence (No. 388), and one gill of vinegar, reduce with a pint of lean veloute (No. 415); stir in the juice of a lemon, two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569) and four finely chopped hard boiled egg-3-olks; strew a little chopped parsley over and serve.
Cut a darne or thick five-inch slice from the middle of a large salmon after it has been scaled, emptied and cleaned. Lay it straight on the grate of a fish-kettle, salt it over liberally and let it macerate for half an hour. Boil in court-bouillon (No. 38). (It should remain at the boiling point until cooked.) Leaving it in the fish-kettle until thoroughly cold, drain off the darne, then remove the skin, wipe the fish, and cover the surfaces with a thin layer of Montpellier butter (No. 582), softened to a proper degree. Slide the darne at once on to a wooden dish foundation covered over with white paper; smooth the butter well, and set it aside in a cool place to harden. Fill the hollow in the center of the darne with a variegated vegetable salad: decorate the top with strips of green butter alternated with mayonnaise, and decorate the sides with a fine relief wreath made of green and white butter, and ornamented with fanciful bits of gherkin, lobster and cooked truffles. Surround the base of the fish with quartered hard-boiled eggs standing upright (No. 2513), alternated with small clusters of chopped jelly or cooked green peas.
Serve with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606).

Fig. 522.
 
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