This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
For six persons have three small or two large very fresh kidneys; suppress the fat and fibrous parts, then cut them up into small slices. Fry in butter in a sautoir one ounce of chopped onion, add the pieces of kidney, and toss them over a quick fire while seasoning; as soon as the meats are cooked, pour all into a sauce pan; remove them with a skimmer on a dish leaving the liquid in the pan, and into it pour one gill of veal blond (No. 423), and one gill of red wine; stir well with the kidney juice, and thicken with a small piece of kneaded butter (No. 579), boil and pass through a tammy; add the kidneys, and finish seasoning with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Cut some potatoes into three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices, then with a round vegetable cutter an inch and a quarter in diameter; remove some pieces; fry these of a fine golden color in butter, drain off the latter and add a little meat glaze (No. 402), a little salt, parsley, and lemon juice; dress these potatoes in a circle, filling the middle with the kidneys and their gravy.
Mince three small kidneys after suppressing the fat and fibrous parts; fry them in butter in a sautoir on a hot fire, season and as soon as the meats are seized, pour into a sautoir; remove, the kidneys with a skimmer, and lay them on a dish, leaving their liquid in the pan; into this add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), some champagne, cooked and turned mushrooms (No. 118), meat glaze (No. 402), chopped and blanched parsley, and lemon juice; pour the sauce over the kidneys, and garnish around with small Milanaise macaroni croquettes made by cooking one pound of macaroni in salted water for fifteen minutes, then drain and cut into quarter inch lengths; put them back into the saucepan with grated parmesan and Swiss cheese, half of each, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, bechamel (No. 409), and a large piece of butter; mix well, then let get cold. With this preparation make croquettes, either cylinder-shaped or any other form; dip in eggs, bread-crumb, and fry to a golden brown.
Split a fine veal kidney through its widest part, pare, and suppress the fat and fibers, then season; run a skewer through the length, coat over with melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs, and broil over a slow fire; dress and cover with slices of blanched beef marrow, pour a Colbert sauce (No. 451) over, and serve very hot.
For six persons take three small fresh veal kidneys, pare off the fat and fibers and cut them up into small slices; fry these with some butter in a sautoir or frying pan and toss them over a very brisk lire; season and as soon as the meats are seized, remove them with a skimmer on a dish, leaving the liquid in the pan; stir into this one gill of stock (No. 194a), as much white wine and four ounces of mushroom heads cut in four, cook while covered for five minutes, thicken the sauce with a little butter kneaded in flour, or else use some thick brown sauce (No. 414); let the sauce cook and reduce with it the kidney liquor that is in the pan, and when reduced and consistent, put back the kidneys with some chopped parsley, heat without boiling and serve. These kidneys may be garnished with triangular croutons of bread-crumbs fried in butter.
 
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