This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Carolina rice is generally the best. It must be observed, that rice which has been wetted by the sea, has lost its savour, and of course is unfit to be made use of for casseroles with rice. You must in the first place pick the rice, and wash it by rubbing it within your hands, in several waters, till the water has not the least stain. Then smell it, for if it should smell of musk, which is often the case, it must be washed in hot water, and then in cold water again, till the bad smell is entirely gone. Next lay it in a sieve to drain for use when wanted.
The same preparation as in No.3, only in that case you keep the rice rather more liquid, and put the whites of two more eggs: that is to say, in a gateau you put eight yolks, and as many whites, whereas in a souffle you put only six yolks and eight whites, and a little more butter.
Take two ounces of rice, which wash and pick, etc. Then let it swell in hot milk, as cream, when used for entremets of this sort, would turn to butter. When the rice is well done, pound half a dozen of sweet almonds, and the same quantity of bitter ones; when you have made them into a paste, rub them through a tammy, and mix them with the rice, together with a little sugar, and a very little salt. Then put the rice into a silver pan or porringer, or silver casserole, and leave it to gratiner on a slow fire for three quarters of an hour or more. Instead of using the lid, only cover the pan with a sheet of paper, to prevent the dust and the steam. Serve hot; if you put a cover to it, the steam will prevent its gratin.
Prepare the rice as in No. 3. Have some apples cut into quarters, and stewed in syrup. Take particular care that the quarters are kept whole. Dish the rice; put a gallipot in the middle, to form a vacancy, into which you are to pour by and by a vanilla cream. Dress the rice round the gallipot, and level it with the back of a spoon. Next place the apples round the rice, till you have reached the summit of it, and put the whole into the oven, but only leave it there time enough to dry up the syrup which sticks round the apples. Next decorate with sweetmeats of different colours, such as greengages, apricots, and cherries; and when you are ready to send up, remove the gallipot, and fill the vacancy with the vanilla cream.
N. B. - Many entremets are made of rice creme,which, by the by, is no more than flour of rice, which is like any other flour, except that it swells more than others. You may make souffles of it, and give them whatever taste you think proper. They must be always sweet.
After having picked the rice well, wash it first in lukewarm, and next in cold water, as directed above. After you have well drained it, throw it into a stew-pan of a proper size, that it may swell with ease: moisten with some pot-top*. The broth must be previously drained through a silk sieve, in order that the rice may be kept very clean. Mix it with a large quantity of grease, and some pieces of fat ham, in order to make the rice more mellow; add a little salt. As the rice must swell very much, use a sufficient quantity of broth to produce that effect. Lay the rice on a very slow fire, and mind to stir it frequently that it may not stick. Taste it to ascertain whether it is well seasoned, and done enough; you then strain it through a cullender, and level it well with a wooden spoon. Take off the fat that issues from the rice, and pour it into the mould which you select for the casserole: when all the parts of this latter are well covered with the grease, drain it by turning the mould upside down, then put some rice all round the mould; put apiece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice, squeeze it in equally with your spoon, and let it cool. When the rice is become firm, dip the outside of the mould into boiling water. Have a little pate brisee, which frame of the size of the mould; turn the mould over the paste ; make an opening with a knife in the top, and flatten the paste all round with a spoon, then put it into the oven, which can never be too hot for a casserole, for if the oven is not hot enough the casserole is liable to break; baste it with the grease, and when it is become of a fine colour take it out of the oven; open it gently, then cut the bread into small pieces with a penknife, that you may take it out without injuring the casserole; next remove the rice that sticks round, but do not empty it too much, for fear it should not bear or resist the weight of whatever you intend to throw in. You generally put into these casseroles, white and brown ragouts, blanquettes, eminces, fricassees of pullets, macaroni, and scollops of fish that have already been sent up to table, etc. etc.
* Pot-top, fat.
 
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