This section is from the book "Practical Cooking And Serving", by Janet McKenzie Hill. Also available from Amazon: Practical Cooking and Serving: A Complete Manual of How to Select, Prepare, and Serve Food [1919].
The American lobster is found in the northern sections of both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. On the Pacific coast the lobster is large and without claws. The natural color of the lobster is usually a dark bluish green and mottled, but in sandy regions the they are slightly reddish. When boiled the color changes to red. Lobsters are caught in nets or traps and shipped to market alive. In March the lobster begins his yearly migration from deep water to the coast; in autumn those that are left to tell the tale of their wanderings return again to the deep sea. During April and May the largest numbers are in motion. Then the fish markets are resplendent with the vivid color of the lobster's shell, and the adjacent country for miles around is resonant with the "buy-lobe, buy-lobe" of the hawkers of this popular crustacean. That the lobster's annual trip is accomplished in safety but a few times is attested by the average size of these creatures when they are caught. They have been known to reach a weight of fifteen pounds, but a five-pound lobster is rarely seen. As the lobster grows at the rate of about a quarter of a pound a year, it is a simple matter to determine his age, and the number of times he has missed the tempting bait in the lobster trap.
Probably the largest lobster ever seen was captured off Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, in 1898, and sent to Boston. It measured nearly seven feet from tip to tip of its colossal body claws; the body itself was three feet long. The legs were about an inch in diameter. The average weight of a lobster to-day is about two pounds. As a general thing lobsters are boiled when taken from the trap; but few are seen in the markets alive. Near the coast, on order, usually for the hotel trade, the flesh is removed from the shell without preliminary boiling. Such flesh is served after one cooking, a gain on the side of digestibility.
A lobster heavy in proportion to its size is the choice; such a lobster is either plump and in good condition, or fresh-boiled and heavy from lack of evaporation. A lobster in good condition when boiled has its tail curled, and when this is straightened out will fly back into place.
Sometimes a lobster is brought from market alive; it should be cooked at once. Have in the kettle enough boiling water to cover the lobster. Take by the back and put into the water head first and as quickly as possible. Add a tablespoonful of salt and let boil five minutes, then simmer half an hour.
Pull off the two large claws, and the four pairs of small claws; break apart the tail and the body; cut the bony membrane on the inside of the tail shell with a pair of scissors, or sardine can-opener, then spread the tail slightly and pull out the flesh in a single piece; open this in the crease on the under side and carefully remove the intestinal vein, which runs the entire length. This vein is always visible, but it differs in color, being white, or red, or sometimes, from the contents, black. Talfe the body from the shell, leaving within the shell the stomach or "lady." If the coral and green substance remain in the shell, shake them out and set aside for use. Pull off the woolly gills found on the body, then break open the body shell and remove all the bits of flesh found between the bones; this is the sweetest and tenderest portion of the lobster. Disjoint the large claws and cut the shell, if thin, to remove the flesh as whole as possible. Take the meat from the small claws with a skewer and leave these whole for garnishing.
The species of crabs are very numerous. The blue crab is the one used as an article of food. On the Atlantic and Gulf coasts it is found in estuaries and brackish water. Other species of the same genus extensively used for food are found in the West Indies and on both coasts of Central and South America. The common, or rock crabs, a large, mottled, reddish brown species, are sometimes sold in the markets of New England; similar species are common in San Francisco, and still another species is used on the European coast. Upon the coast of the Southern States a very large species, five or six inches across, is caught in great numbers for the market. On account of the scarcity of beef and mutton in the South, crabs are eaten there more largely than in the North. Crabs, as well as lobsters, shed their shells. Soft-shell crabs, or crabs upon which the new shell has not hardened, are considered a great delicacy. Oyster crabs found inside the shell of the oyster are another delicacy. As they are not found in large numbers and are very tiny, they are used in few dishes other than as a garnish.
In this country shrimps are not in general use as an article of food, but they are in common use in England and France. The best shrimps in this country are found in Southern waters; these are from an inch and a half to two inches and a half long. Shrimps are of a grayish color, turning to pink in boiling. In the Northern markets shrimps are seen only after boiling. They are seasonable from May to October. Canned shrimps are more generally used than any other canned shell-fish. Shrimps are used in salads or sauces; they are also served, heated in a cream sauce, from the chafing dish. To prepare for cooking, pick off the shell and take out the intestinal vein.
 
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