There are several ways of cooking rice, each of which has points of merit, at least, for those who advocate the method. As a rule rice-growing people prefer the rice grains less tender than do these of Northern climes, just as the Italians prefer macaroni in a state which by many would be called an underdone condition. But soft or not, all wish rice dry. The quantity of liquid that the grain will absorb depends upon the variety of the rice, the season in which it was grown, the time it has been kept, and the liquid used. These things affect, also, the time of cooking. Rice will absorb in cooking from two and a half to four times its bulk of liquid. When three cups of water would suffice, three and a half or four cups of milk or tomato purée are required.

Rice needs to be thoroughly cleansed before cooking. It may be washed in several waters, being rubbed, meanwhile, between the hands, but the most satisfactory way is to blanch rice. Put the rice over a hot fire in a large saucepan of cold water and stir, occasionally, while it is heating; let boil five minutes, then drain on a sieve and pass cold water from the faucet through it. The rice is now beautifully white and clean and the grains do not adhere to each other. To cook, return to the fire, covered with the hot liquid, whatever this be, in which it is to be cooked, let cook rapidly until nearly all the liquid is absorbed, then finish cooking over hot water. If the liquid be milk, cook from the first, after blanching, in the double-boiler.