The general rules for discovering whether fish are fresh or stale, are by observing the colour of their gills, which should be of a lively red ; whether they are hard or easy to be opened, the standing out or sinking in of their eyes, their fins being stiff limber, or by smelling to their gills Fish taken in running water are always better than those taken from ponds.

Turbot

If a turbot is good, it will be thick and plump, and the belly of a yellowish white; but they are not good, if they appear thin and bluish. Turbot are in season the greater part of the summer, and are generally caught in the German and British Ocean.

Soles

Good soles are thick and firm, and the belly of a fine cream-colour; but they are not good, if they are flabby, or incline to a bluish white. Midsummer is their principal season.

Lobsters

If a lobster is fresh, the tail will be stiff, and pull up with a spring; but if stale, the tail will be flabby, and have no spring in it. This rule, however, concerns lobsters that are boiled; and it is much better to buy them alive, and boil them yourself, taking care that they are not spent by too long keeping. If they have not been long taken, the claws will have a quick and strong motion upon squeezing the eyes, and the heaviest are esteemed the best. rl he cock-lobster is known by the narrow back part of his tail. The two uppermost fins within his tail are stiff and hard ; but those of the hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, though generally smaller than the female, has the higher flavour, the flesh firmer, and the body of a redder colour, when boiled.

Sturgeon

The flesh of a good sturgeon is very white, with a few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, good-coloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue ; for when these are brown or yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is bad. It has a pleasant smell when good, but a very disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm without crumbling. The females are as full of roe as our carp, which is taken out and spread upon a table, beat fiat, and sprinkled with salt; it is then dried in the air and sun, and afterwards in ovens: it should be of a reddish brown colour, and very dry. This is called caviare, and is eaten with oil and vinegar.

Cod

A cod should be very thick at the neck, the flesh very white and firm, and of a bright clear colour, and the gills red. When they are flabby, they are not good. They are in season from Christmas to Lady-day.

Skate

This fish should be very* white and thick. When they are too fresh, they eat tough ; and if stale, they have a very disagreeable smell: so that some judgment is required to dress them in proper time.

Herrings

The gills of a fresh herring are of a fine red, their eyes full, and the whole fish stiff and very bright ; but if the gills are of a faint colour, the fish limber ana wrinkled, they are bad. The goodness of pickled herrings is known by their being fat, fleshy, and white. Good red herrings are large, firm, and dry. They should be full of roe or milt, and the outside of them of a fine yellow.

Trout

All the kinds of this fine fresh-water fish are excellent: but the best are those that are red and yellow. The female are most in esteem, and are known by having a smaller head and deeper body than the male. They are high in season the latter end of June ; and their freshness may be known by the rule we have already laid down for that purpose, concerning other fish.

Tench

This is also a fresh-water fish, and is in season in July, August, and September. This fish should be dressed alive ; but if they be dead, examine their gills, which should be red, and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body firm and stiff, if fresh. Some are covered with a slimy matter, which, if clear and bright, is a good sign.

Salmon

The flesh of salmon, when new, is of a fine red, and particularly so at the gills ; the scales should be bright, and the fish very stiff. The spring is the season for this fish; but whether that caught in the Thames, or the Severn, be best, is a matter of some dispute.

Smelts. When perfectly fresh they are of a fine silver hue, very firm, and have an agreeable smell, resembling that of a cucumber.

Eels

The Thames silver eel is generally the most esteemed; and the worst are those brought by the Dutch, and sold at Billingsgate market. They should be dressed alive; and they are always in season except during the hot summer months.

Flounders

This fish is found in the sea as well as rivers, and should be dressed alive. They are in season from January to March, and from July to September. When fresh, they are stiff, their eyes bright and full, and their bodies thick.

Oysters

The Colchester, Pyfleet, and Milford oysters, are esteemed the best: though the native Milton are reckoned very good, being the fattest and whitest. They are known to be alive and vigorous when they close fast upon the knife, and let go as soon as they are wounded in the body.

Prawns and Shrimps. They have an excellent smell when in perfection ; are firm and stiff, and their tails turn stiffly inwards. Their colour is very bright, when fresh; but when stale, their tails grow limber, the brightness of their colour goes off, and they become pale and clammy.