This section is from the book "The London Art Of Cookery and Domestic Housekeepers' Complete Assistant", by John Farley. Also available from Amazon: The London Art of Cookery.
If acock turkey is young, it will have a smooth black leg, with a short spur; the eyes will be full and bright, and the feet limber and moist; but you must carefully observe, that the spurs are not cut or scraped to deceive you. When a turkey is stale, the feet are dry and the eyes sunk. The same rule will determine whether a hen-turkey be fresh or stale, young or old; with this difference, that if old, her legs will be rough and red ; if with egg, the vent will be soft and open ; but if she have no eggs, the vent will be hard.
The spurs of a young cock are short; but the same precaution will be as necessary here, in that point, as just observed in the choice of turkeys. Their vents will be open, if stale ; but close and hard, if fresh. Hens are always best when full of eggs, and just before they begin to lay. The combs and legs of an old hen are rough ; but smooth when young. The comb of a good capon is very pale, its breast is peculiarly fat, and it has a thick belly, and a large rump.
A Yellow bill and feet, with but few hairs upon them, are the mark of a young goose, but these are red when old. The feet will be limber, if fresh, but stiff and dry if old. Green geese are in season from May or June, till they are three months old. A stubble goose will be good till five or six months old, and should be picked dry; but green geese should be scalded. The same rules will hold good for wild geese, with respect to their being young or old.
Ducks. The legs of a fresh-killed duck are limber ; and if it is fat, its belly will be hard and thick. The feet of a stale duck are dry and stiff. The feet of a tame duck are inclining to a dusky yellow, and are thick. The feet of a wild duck are smaller than a tame one, and are of a reddish colour. Ducks must be picked dry ; but ducklings should be scalded.
These very beautiful birds are of the English cock and. hen kind, and are of a fine flavour. The cock has spurs, which the hen has not, and the hen is most valued when with egg. The spurs of a young cock pheasant are short and blunt, or round ; but if old, they are long and sharp. If the vent of the hen be open and green, she is stale ; and when rubbed hard with the finger, the skin will peel: if with egg, the vent will be soft.
A woodcock is a bird of passage, and is found with us only in the winter. They are best about a fortnight or three weeksafter their first appearance, when they have rested after their long passage over the ocean. If fat, they will feel firm and thick, which is a proof of their good condition. Their vent will be also thick and hard, and a vein of fat will run by the side of the breast; but a lean one will feel thin in the vent. If newly killed, its feet will be limber, and the head and throat clean ; but the contrary, if stale.
Autumn is the season for partridges, when, if young, the legs will be yellowish, and the bill of a dark colour. If they are fresh, the vent will be firm ; but if stale, it will look greenish, and the skin will peel when rubbed with the finger. If old, the bill will be white, and the legs blue.
The same rules given for the choice of the turkey, will hold good with respect to this curious bird.
These birds are full and fat at the vent, and limber-footed, when new; but if the toes are harsh, the vent loose, open, and green, they are stale. If old, their legs will be large and red. The tame pigeon is preferable to the wild, and should be large in the body, fat and tender; but the wild pigeon is not so fat. Wood pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but in other respects like them. The same rules will hold good in the choice of the plover, fieldfare, thrush, lark, blackbird, etc.
 
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