The best ham to select is one weighing from eight to ten pounds. Take one that is not too fat, to save waste. Soak all night; wash it carefully before you put it on to boil, removing rust or mould with a small, stiff scrubbing-brush. Lay it in a large boiler and pour over it enough cold water to cover it. To this add a bay-leaf, half a dozen cloves, a couple of blades of mace, a teaspoonful of sugar, and, if you can get it, a good handful of fresh, sweet hay. Let the water heat very gradually, not reaching the boil under two hours. It should never boil hard, but simmer gently until the ham has cooked fifteen minutes to every pound. It must cool in the liquor, and the skin should not be removed until the meat is entirely cold, taking care not to break or tear the fat. Brush over the ham with beaten egg, strew it thickly with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. Arrange a frill of paper around the bone of the shank, and surround the meat with water-cress, or garnish the dish with parsley.