Oysters

The breeding season for oysters begins about the first of May, at which time they become soft and milky and do not return to their firm condition again until the weather is cold. Canned oysters, however, are good at any time and are often a blessing to the invalid on this account, since they may always be relied upon to furnish a tempting dish.

Oysters are differently sold in different places, some dealers selling by measure only, while others sell both by measure and count. When they are sold by the dozen, they are generally divided into several grades. "Counts"are the largest and are suitable for frying, broiling, etc.; they are, of course, the most expensive kind. " Selects " rank next to " counts " and in some markets are called " culls." " Straights " are oysters taken as they come, the large with the small.

Oysters are very dainty food and require careful hand-ling The seasoning used should be of the most delicate kind, and the oysters should never be cooked after they have become plump and the edges curl. Too much cooking makes them hard and indigestible and ruins their flavor entirely.

Raw Oysters

Raw oysters are served either on the half-shell, on oyster plates or in a block of ice. Allow to each person five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon, and also pass thin slices of delicately buttered brown or graham bread.

Little neck clams take the place of oysters during the hot weather and are similarly served.

Oysters On Ice

There is a very attractive way of serving raw oysters. Select a rectangular piece of clear ice, with smooth, regular surfaces. With a hot brick or flat-iron melt a cavity in the ice large enough to hold the oysters. Pour out the water from the melted ice, wash out the cavity and dry it, and put in the oysters, which should be well drained in a colander. Place a thick napkin on a platter, set the ice upon this, and garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. A bed of smilax or parsley is sometimes made about and upon the napkin to conceal it, the lemon being placed on this green bed. The ice is often chipped roughly to resemble a rock.

Oyster Soup

This will be found among the soups.

Fried Oysters

Drain the oysters well in a colander and season with salt and pepper. Have ready a pint and a-half of dried bread-crumbs (see index for method of preparing bread for crumbing), and slightly salt and pepper them. This quantity of crumbs will "bread" fifty oysters, which number will be ample for six persons. Thoroughly beat three eggs. Place a few crumbs on a plate, and roll the oysters in them, adding crumbs as needed, until all the oysters have been treated to the crumbs. Lay the oysters as they are crumbed on a baking board that has been sprinkled with crumbs. Dip the oysters into the beaten egg, one at a time, and roll each, as soon as dipped, in the bread-crumbs again. Do not pile them one upon another; and let them stand at least an hour before frying, if you would have them in perfection. Place a layer of oysters in a frying-basket and plunge them into boiling fat that is so hot that blue smoke rises from the center. Cook about a minute and a-half, and drain on soft brown paper. Oysters fried in this manner are brown, tender, crisp and plump.