Varieties And Species

The following are cultivated around Philadelphia, and are among the more desirable. A superb collection, perhaps the most so in the Union, is in the possession of Caleb Cope, President of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society: Cereus grandiflorus.

----------monstrosus.

----------cylindricus.

----------Mallisonia.

----------Smithii.

----------flagelliformis.

----------horrida.

----------gladiata.

----------gemmatus.

----------speciosissimus.

----------heptagonus.

Epiphyllum speciosa.

----------------splendens.

----------------Jenkinsonia.

----------------truncatus.

------------------------------Russellianus.

------------------------------atropurpurea superba.

----------------vandesia.

Mammillaria prolifera.

------------------Wildeana.

------------------rhodantha.

------------------stellata.

------------------ radiata.

-----------------------------rubra.

Echinocactus Eyreisii.

--------------------------------decora.

-------------------ottonis.

-------------------dis-color.

-------------------simplex.

-------------------pulchella.

Opuntia, microdysa. ----------, leuacantha.

Cuttings And Culture

"The best time for propagating by cuttings is when the plants are growing freely; make them of whatever size can be spared from the plants; and those that are of young and unripe shoots, lay on a dry shelf in the green-house for a fortnight to dry up the sap, which prevents them from rotting, and causes them to emit roots much sooner. Plant them singly in small pots, and place them in a moderate hot-bed frame; when they have filled the pots with roots, re-pot and place in an intermediate, or pelargonium-house, to remain for the summer, and receive a good supply of water.

"In the autumn allow them to get quite dry, and winter in a dry, airy part of the green-house. In spring, again remove to the pelargonium-house, and use a very little water, which increase as the season advances.

"By the end of the second summer they will have grown to the size of good blooming plants; and in the autumn they should be placed out in a warm airy part of the garden, to ripen the shoots thoroughly.

"About the usual time of housing other green-house plants they should be again dried, and put, as before, in the green-house; place the first for forcing in the intermediate stove about the 1st of February, and continue a succession, till they bloom in the greenhouse, which is about June.

"Such plants will bear the greatest extremes of dryness and moisture, and without proper attention is paid at the season of rest to keep them quite cool and dry, they never will bloom properly. The forcing must be commenced at a low temperature, and water at first given sparingly.

"When they have begun to grow freely, and the bloom-buds are well started, they must be watered, not by a continued dripping, but by copious applications, and at intervals of a fortnight, during the growing season, with liquid manure.

"When the bloom-buds are sufficiently advanced, thin out all those which are large and small, leaving them as near one size as possible, and at proper distance to allow the blooms to expand. When they have flowered, keep the plants rather dry for a short time, and place them in a cool shady part of the green-house, or under a north wall. In a few weeks they will again assume their usual firm and healthy appearance, and begin to grow; and then clear off all the decayed blooms and seed-pods, and place the plants for the autumn in the garden in a south aspect, where there is a free circulation of air, giving them a good supply of water; after this they are moved to the green-house and treated as before. Train them to iron stakes, made to fit the outside of the pots or tubs, and fasten them with wire. Attention should be paid to early training, and to stopping all shoots as soon as they attain the required height; all useless side and bottom shoots rub off, and occasionally some of the old shoots cut out, and replace with young ones." - Gard. Chron.