It may not be misplaced to remark, that chilly foggy days are even less propitious for admitting air than severe frosty ones; during such it is best to keep the frames close, and to lessen the opening of the glasses, in proportion as the air is cold or the beds declining, it never exceeding two inches under the most favourable circumstances. Water is usually required two or three times a week; it must be warmed as before mentioned previously to its application. Instead of watering the inside of the frame, it is a good plan to do so plentifully round the sides, which causes a steam to rise, and affords a moisture much more genial to the plants than watering the mould.

The last stage of growth includes the blossoming and production of fruit. The training must be regularly attended to, and all superabundance of shoots and leaves especially kept away. If the plants which have been once stopped have extended their runners to three joints without showing fruit, they must be again stopped.

The impregnation of the fruit now requires continued attention; as soon as a female blossom, which is known by having fruit beneath the flower-cup, opens, or on the second morning at farthest, a fresh full expanded male flower is to be plucked, with its footstalk pertaining to it, and the corolla or flower-cup being removed, the remaining central part or anther applied to the stigma of the female, which is similarly situated, and the fecundating dust discharged by gently twirling it between the finger and thumb. If possible a fresh male blossom should be employed for every impregnation, and the operation performed in the early part of the day. An attention to this is only requisite to such plants as are in frames; those grown in the open air are always sufficiently impregnated by bees and other insects. If impregnation does not take place the fruit never swells to more than half its natural size, nor perfects any seed, but generally drops imma-turely. When the male flowers appear in clusters they may be thinned moderately with benefit; but it is almost needless to deprecate the erroneous-practice sometimes recommended of plucking them off entirely.

As the fruit advances, tiles, sand, or other material, must be placed beneath it to preserve it from specking, or a glass cylinder is still better; if a bulb containing water is attached, the fruit grows faster and finer. The same precautions are necessary as regards the preservation of temperature, admission of air, etc, as in the second stage of the growth of the plants. Towards the conclusion of the first production, it is a good practice to renew the heat by adding eighteen inches of fermenting dung all round the bed, previous coatings being entirely removed, and to earth over it to the same depth as in the interior of the bed. This prevents the roots, when they have extended themselves to the sides of the bed, being dried by exposure to the air and sun. As the spring advances the glasses may be often taken off dur- ing mild days, or even to admit a light temperate rain. In June, or July, according to the geniality of the season, they maybe removed finally,and even before, the frames may be raised on bricks, so as to allow the runners to spread at will.

For a middling-sized family, from four to eight lights are sufficient to afford a constant supply, and for a larger one, double those numbers. During midwinter, twelve weeks elapse between the time of sowing the seed and the fitness of the fruit for gathering; but as the more temperate seasons of the year advance, this period decreases gradually to eight. Between the time of impregnation and their full growth, from fifteen to twenty days usually elapse. Under favourable circumstances and management, the same vines will continue in production three or four months.

Mr. Mills, one of the most successful growers with dung heat, gives me these leading points of his culture: -

Mr. Mills sows on the 29th of September, and transplants into the fruit-ing-pit on the 29th of October. Range of temperature in pit, 65° to 85° and 95°; and of the bottom-heat from 85° to 95°. He uses neither saline nor liquid manure. The water employed is about 80°, but in this Mr. Mills is not particular; Mr. Beaton, to avoid the degenerating almost unavoidably incident to the fancy varieties, if propagated by seed, employs cuttings or layers. His practice was also adopted by Mr. Mears, gardener to W. Hanbury, Esq., near Leominster, and is recommended by Mr. McPhail. We also saw a very fine cucumber, ripened in January of this year (1844), by Mr. Mills, from a cutting planted in October. As the end of September is the best time for pursuing this mode of propagation, we will just state the mode. Put five inches of earth into a twelve pot, in which plant three cuttings, taken from as many vigorous bearing branches; water plentifully; place a sheet of glass over the top of the pot, the sides of which will shade the cuttings until they are rooted; plunge in a hot-bed; and in less than a fortnight the plants will be established.

The vines thus raised are not so succulent as those raised from seed, and consequently they are less liable to damp, I or to suffer in other ways during winter. - Trans. Lond. Hort. Soc.