Cucumis sativus. This, like many other esculent vegetables, has been divided into a number of varieties and subvarieties, the greater portion of which could be easily dispensed with; for all useful purposes, three or four varieties are amply sufficient. "Those principally grown are the Early Frame and Long Green Prickly. The Early Frame is of moderate length, prickly, and is the variety generally used as the early crop for salad.

"The Long Green is mostly grown for pickling; all the varieties are very tender, not bearing the least frost. For an early supply start some plant in pots or boxes, early in the spring, and when the season is more advanced set them out on a well sheltered border, in hills, with some thoroughly rotted manure incorporated with the soil. Seed for succeeding crops may then be planted. For pickles, plant the latter end of June and beginning of July. The Cu- cumber, like the Squash, etc., is liable to be preyed upon by yellow bugs, which are very destructive. To counteract them prepare a mixture of slaked lime and wood ashes, and sprinkle it freely on the leaves and stems whilst the dew is on, that it may adhere. As . often as it may be washed or blown off, repeat the application, till the enemy be conquered.

" For the method of making sieves or boxes to protect cucumber vines, melon vines, etc, against the yellow bug, see ' the New England Farmer, vol.2, page 305. " - Rural Register.

To Force Cucumbers

Most persons who have the requisite conveniences force this vegetable. The following hints may be useful, even to those who have some experience.

The hot-bed for seedlings must be moderate, and a single one or two light frames will be quite sufficient if dedicated to their cultivation. The mould need not be more than five or six inches deep. The seed is best sown four together in small pots, and plunged in the earth of the bed; but whether here or in the mould, it must not be buried more than half an inch deep. Two or three days after sowing, or when the seminal leaves are half an inch in breadth, those in the mould of the bed must be pricked three together in small pots, quite down to their leaves in the earth, which should be brought to the temperature of the bed before this removal, by being set in it for a day or two previously; those seedlings that have been raised in pots, must likewise be thinned to three in each. They must remain plunged in the hot-bed until their rough leaves have acquired a breadth of two or three inches, when they are fit for ridging out finally.

During this first stage of growth, great care must be taken that air is admitted every day as freely as contingent circumstances will admit, as also at night, if the degree of heat and steam threatens to be too powerful. It must never be neglected to cover the glasses at night, apportioning the covering to the temperature of the air and bed. The heat should not exceed 80° in the hottest day, or sink below 65° during the coldest night.

If the heat declines, coatings of hot dung are to be applied in succession to the back, front, and sides, if that source of heat be employed. As the mould appears dry, moderate waterings must be given, care being taken not to wet the leaves. The best time for applying it is between ten and two of a mild day, the glasses being closed for an hour or two after performing it. The temperature of the water must be between 65° and 80°. The interior of the glass should be frequently wiped, to prevent the condensed steam dropping upon the plants, which is very injurious to them. If the bed attains a sudden violent heat, the necessary precautions to prevent the roots of the plants being injured or scalded, must be adopted; but if hot water is the source of heat, this danger is avoided altogether.

It is a material advantage if, previous to planting finally, the plants be turned into pots a few sizes larger, without at all disturbing the roots, and plunged into a hot-bed for a month longer, the same attention being paid them as before.

The second stage of cultivation is planting them out into hot-beds for final production. The hot-bed for their reception must be of the largest size, as being required to afford a higher and longer continued warmth through the coldest periods of the year.

When the earth is put on, it is at first to be spread only two or three inches deep, but under the centre of each light a hillock must be constructed, eight or ten inches deep and a foot in diameter. The earthing should be performed at least four or five days before planting, at which time the earth must be examined; if it be of a white colour and caked, or, as it is technically termed, burnt, it must be renewed, for the plants will not thrive in it, and holes bored in the bed to give vent to the steam.

The mould of the hillocks being well stirred, the plants must be turned out of the pots without disturbing the ball of earth, and one containing three plants inserted in each; a little water, previously heated to the requisite temperature, must he given, and the glasses kept perfectly close until the next morning. Any plants not in pots must be moved by the trowel with as much earth pertaining to their roots as possible. The shade of a mat is always requisite during the meridian of bright days until the plants are well established. They must be pressed gradually away from each other, until at least eight inches apart; nothing can be more erroneous than to allow them to proceed with the stems nearly touching.

When well taken root, earth must be added regularly over the bed, until it is level with the tops of the mounds; for if there be not a sufficient depth of soil, the leaves will always droop during hot days, unless they are shaded, or more water given them than is proper.

An important operation for the obtaining early fruit, but by no means so necessary for later crops, is the first pruning, or as it is termed, stopping the plant, that is, nipping off the top of the first advancing runner, which is to be done as soon as the plant has attained four rough leaves; this prevents its attaining a straggling growth, and compels it at once to emit laterals, which are the fruitful branches. When they begin to run, the shoots must be trained and pegged down at regular distances, which not only prevents their rubbing against the glass, but also becoming entangled with each other. Never more than two or three main branches should be left to each plant, all others to be removed as they appear. If more are left it causes the whole to be weak, and entirely prevents the due exposure of the foliage to the sun. The greatest care is necessary in regulating the temperature; it must never be allowed to decline below 70° or rise above 953. As it decreases, coatings of hot dung must be applied to the sides, and the covering increased. The temperature of the bed, as well as of the exterior air, governs also the degree of freedom with which the air may he admitted; whenever allowable, the glasses should be raised.

The best time for doing so, is from ten to three o'clock.