Grafting

Mr. J. Alexander, of Heath Farm, Atley, has grafted the Pelargonium very successfully, and his method is as follows: -

"Graft in August or September, using pretty well ripened wood of the same year's growth; cut back the stock to about three inches long, and in ten days afterwards graft in the manner of whip-grafting, and tie with bast and clay, over which put a little moss to keep the clay from cracking, and to preserve the whole in a moist state, being occasionally sprinkled with water in a shadowy part of a vinery, and in a month the grafts begin to grow; put into a cold frame for a few days, then take out of the pot, and all the earth being shaken from the roots, repot in fresh soil, and treat as the other Pelargoniums. Weak growing sorts grow stronger when grafted on robust kinds than on their own roots." - Gard. Chron.

Where the saving of space in the green-house is desirable, two or more Pelargoniums may be grafted upon the same stock. As many as ten have been thus united. Pelargonium ele-gans and Beauty of Ware have been employed successfully as stocks. Cleft-grafting succeds as well as whip-grafting. Worsted may be employed instead of bast; and inarching is even a better mode of propagating than grafting.

Growing In Open Ground

Mr. J. Murdoch has given us the following directions on this head: -

"Put the cuttings into small pots at once, which obviates any check they would receive when removing them, either from cutting-pots or the open ground; make beds of mixed varieties, chiefly the Old Graveolens, Fair Helen, Lady Essex, Emily, and Moore's Victory, which flower freely all the summer, and though not so gaudy as some, have a more delightful fragrance. -

About the end of July, having removed all Pelargoniums to the hack of a north wall, commence cutting them down, arranging the prunings as cut off alphabetically for the convenience of finding the sorts. When cut remove them into a shed; on the following morning commence planting the cuttings. The scarlet ones put into sixty or small forty-eight pots, and place on a flue, within a green-house, where they require very little water until they are struck, when remove them to a cold frame; give them plenty of air, and keep them there till the beginning of November, when stow them away in a vinery intended to be forced about the beginning of February. At that time, or earlier, repot them and place them in another vinery to be forced. By turning-out in time they are nice plants. The cuttings of other sorts put in smaller pots, and plunge in saw-dust on a gentle hot-bed made of leaves covered by a frame; give a litle water to settle the mould about the cuttings. They require very little after, as the greatest enemy is damp; frequently give a little air. They require scarcely any shading, unless the sun is very hot.

After they are struck they receive the same treatment as the scarlet ones." - Gard. Chron.

Growing For Exhibition

Mr. Cock, the florist, of Chiswick, one of the most successful cultivators of this flower, has published the following directions: -

"Strike the cuttings the beginning of June, or sooner if the plants are sufficiently strong to allow taking two or three shoots off without injury. As soon as they are rooted, pot them in sixty-sized pots, and remove them to a shady situation, or place them in a cool frame, shading them constantly when the sun is out, until they have taken fresh roots. Next transfer to an open situation, and place on slates or boards. As soon as the plants will bear the sun without flagging, stop them. In September repot them into forty-eight sized pots, and at that period commence training them into the forms you intend them to have. In December or January, those which are sufficiently strong are shifted into sixteen-sized pots, allowing plenty of potsherds for drainage; the others do not shift till March. In these pots they remain to flower. About the middle of July, or the beginning of August, cut them down and place them in a shady situation, to keep the sun from drying the soil too fast; water is now applied very sparingly.

As soon as the plants have thrown out shoots an inch long, the soil to be nearly all shaken off, and repotted into the same sized pots.

"When they have taken fresh root, the superfluous shoots are thinned out; in this state they remain until they are removed into the green-house.