This section is from the book "A Dictionary Of Modern Gardening", by George William Johnson, David Landreth. Also available from Amazon: The Winter Harvest Handbook: Year Round Vegetable Production Using Deep Organic Techniques and Unheated Greenhouses.
Mr. Glenny recommends "the middle sized, with firm tubers and plump buds, as preferable for planting; and care should be taken to place a little sand under and over each, to guard them against too much moisture." - Gard. and Pract. Florist.
"About the beginning of April," says Dr. Horner, "the young plants will appear above ground, when the loosened soil should be carefully yet firmly compressed with : the fingers about the roots.
"During the months of April and May, should a continuance of dry ! weather prevail, water may be cautiously administered at intervals in an evening, but only just so much as will prevent the soil of the bed from cracking; or a little moss, or old spent tanner's bark, etc, may be neatly placed between the rows, which will retain the moisture in the soil. The injudicious and over abundant application of water is a very common error, and one of the | greatest evils. It not unfrequently happens that plants, which have looked well for a time, at length begin to turn yellow in the foliage, and the flower buds dwindle and go off.
"The dying of the leaves in some instances evidently depends on a want of vigour, or partial rot in the root; and, in some few cases, it would appear to be caused by large earthworms, forming their wide tracks amid the roots of the plants, nearly undermining them; but in the great majority of cases, it is produced by injudicious watering.
"During the expansion of the flower buds, and when they are fully blown, a stage and awning should be erected over the bed, as in the case of tulips, that rain and hot sun may be excluded; and gentle watering every second or third evening, may be given, which will keep the bed cool and moist, and promote the size of the flower. As much air should be admitted as possible, that the flower-stems be not drawn and weakened."- Gard. Chron.
This is essential; and the following plan, adopted by Mr. Glenny, is excellent: -
"Let the bed be made just the size of a cucumber frame; place one of these on the bed, and if there is danger of heavy rains, or severe weather, put on the sashes. As soon as heavy frost sets in, the whole of the interior of the frame must be filled with leaves, and the sashes replaced, and a few boards laid on to keep the leaves from blowing away. In this manner, the whole may remain until April, or until all danger of frost is over, when the leaves, frames, etc, may be entirely removed."- Gard. and Prac. Flor.
Upon this point, the same excellent authority directs this to be done "a fortnight after the last flowers have faded, when the foliage looks yellowish. It is a very nice operation, and should not be done hastily. The best way is to pare off three inches of the soil into a sieve, if the bed is composed of mixed sorts, and then, by shaking out the earth, the roots will remain.
"When the varieties are named, they must be taken up singly, and put in a box correctly labeled. They must not be placed in the sun, but may be carried to a dry room, where they may remain till the earth is sufficiently dry to shake off easily, when they should be put into paper bags." - Gard. and Prac. Flor.
To obtain this, we have the following directions by Mr. H. Groom, the well known florist: -
"The beds are prepared in the usual manner, the ground immediately afterwards well watered with lime water; but to destroy the worms, which are otherwise apt to draw the roots from their places; afterwards water with clear cow-dung water, until the foliage makes its appearance. The beds are then kept shaded from nine in the morning till five or six in the evening, till the bloom is over. For a bloom all the season, commence in February, and plant every fortnight or three weeks; in September, plant in a frame, and you will have a bloom about January or February." - Hort. Trans.
Mr. Bouche of Berlin, a florist, gives these directions: -
"Select tubers which have been kept three or four months, or even a year, over the season of planting, these being more easily excited than those which have been only the usual time out of the soil, plant them in pots about the beginning of August; and, by bringing these into the green-house at different periods, a bloom is kept up from October to February." - Gard. Mag.
 
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