The removal of crops used up, or nearly so, will now require prompt attention, so that the space may be manured, sown, and planted. An effort should now be made to get every available space well filled for winter supplies. Walcheren, Granger's, Snow's, Knight's Protecting, Carter's Champion, and Gordon's Broccolis, are among the best to give a succession of crops up to May or June: and systematic arrangements should be made so that each kind may be planted to follow the other in succession, avoiding small patches of ground becoming vacant in the midst of large breadths which are to turn in at a later date. Broccoli may be planted in rich ground from 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart. Seldom are good heads had when the plants stand under 2 feet from each other. Kale and Brussels Sprouts should be planted in abundance, as they are two of the hardiest and most useful of all the Brassica race, and often give good supplies when Broccolis are destroyed. Plenty of Cabbage or Cole-worts planted now will be useful in autumn. Sow seed for early spring Cabbage about the middle of the month for the north, and towards the end of the month for the south.

Clear off all refuse from Cabbage which have been cut, and give a mulching to keep them in active growth, if they are to supply heads in autumn and winter; but young plantations are generally most satisfactory. Hard heavy clay-land to be planted or sown should have a watering the night previous, and it will break down like powder when half dry. Give the plants a good soaking when they are planted, should the weather be dry. Surface-waterings repeated keep the roots near the drought, and they are destroyed, thus making the plants stunted. Half-watering is worse than none at all. Early Celery will now take almost any quantity. When a good breadth of early Potatoes is lifted, sow Turnip for autumn and winter supply. Spinach may be sown between newly-planted Broccoli, Cauliflower, or other crops; thus saving useful ground, and doing no harm to the remaining crop. Sow a good breadth of Lettuce. Thin out crops a foot apart, and plant the best of the thinnings in a shady position, to make a succession crop to those standing where they were sown. Endive may now be sown on good ground. Sow plenty of small Salad, and Radish of sorts; Turnip kinds answer best at this season. They may be sown among other crops, or under the shade of bushes.

A mat or other covering placed over the seed, keeping the ground moist, will be a safe method of getting the seeds to vegetate on dry, hot positions. French Beans may still be sown in the south for a late crop, but in the north only where they can be protected from autumn frost. A good breadth should be placed where a frame can be put over them. When the plants are well established in the open ground, and glass placed over them when there is danger of frost, they will keep in full bearing far into the autumn. Top in Scarlet Runners, whether grown staked or kept dwarf. If they are required to keep on bearing, the Beans should all be picked off before they get old. This applies to all kinds of Beans. Make a sowing of any early kind of Peas, for a chance crop. They should be in a position where the sun does not shine on them early in the morning, as when they are touched with frost they are better to be thawed before the sun shines on them. This applies to French Beans and other tender crops. Asparagus-beds may be dusted with salt, which not only kills the weeds, but helps the growth of the plants. The more vigorously Asparagus is grown now, the finer it will be when forced, or for next year's supply. Leeks may now be planted on extra rich land, if not done earlier.

The main crops of Celery should now be got in without delay. Take up Garlic and Shallots when their tops become yellow. Tomatoes will now require attention, by training, rubbing off laterals, and plenty of water. Expose the fruit freely to sun. Those which have been forced and continue to bear, may be placed on open spaces against walls. Though they bear well in southern districts planted out like Potatoes and staked, they require in the north the aid of a wall, a sloping ridge, with slates placed over it, or some other contrivance to afford shelter and heat. Capsicums and Chilis also require a warm position, and to get them ripened early they require glass and artificial heat. Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows on ridges, or planted against walls, should have attention to training, stopping, and thoroughly watering the plants. They should be allowed to run freely, and not become matted in the foliage. A good mulching over the roots, especially Cucumbers, will help them much, and save labour. Manure from a Mushroom-bed used in this way often, gives good supplies of Mushrooms during autumn.

Free open surfaces among all crops will do much to save the use of the watering-pot. The hoe or prong can scarcely be used too freely.

M. T.