The cultivation of vegetables perhaps never was more popular, and encouragement to exhibit fine produce never more liberal, than at present. Among some of the leading prizes offered to tempt cultivators are several from Carter & < !o. A number of novelties are mentioned, which will have to appear in the various collections. The London Horticultural Society are also giving more attention to this useful branch of gardening, by encouraging growers to send collections to their exhibition-tables. And in every nurseryman's seed-list we have received, numbers of novelties are offered as improvements on what has been sent out previously. Many of the "novelties" sent out during the last few years we have proved to be good, if not always new. Careful selections from old standard kinds are sometimes honoured with a new name; but generally we have been pleased with our purchases, as one does not regret getting back an old friend which was long supposed to be extinct. The difficulty of getting some kinds of vegetables true (after they have been in the market a few years) is known to most cultivators. Broccolis, Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce, are among the most difficult to obtain true to name - at least, according to our experience.

Soil and climate, however, have often to decide what should be grown and what may be discarded. Broccolis have been destroyed in many places this season, especially in the south of England and some parts of Scotland. "We have lost some, but those which have stood best are Lack's Late, Shearer's Late, and Carter's Champion; Lauder's Superb and Gordon's Protecting have stood better than some other kinds - on poor ground they have stood best of all. To turn the vegetable garden to best account will require much energy and forethought during this month and next. If the weather should be very wet, much difficulty will be experienced in making a good start. To sow or plant in wet and cold soil is often labour thrown away and good seeds sacrificed. Therefore, whenever a favourable opportunity occurs it should never be lost, but every effort made to get in the seeds, and have them covered warm and dry. Surfaces of soil well sweetened from having been exposed to the weather give comparatively little trouble.

Arrangement of crops, changing them yearly, keeping the sorts from being scattered about in small patches aa much as possible, surfaces kept open by hoe or prong, absence of weeds, keeping vermin in check, attention to regular successions as demand requires, thinning in time,and not allowing young plants of any kind to become matted, are some of the principal objects to be kept in view for some months to come, if ground is to be made the best of. Ground on which Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, or Kale have been cleared, should now be manured and trenched, or dug up. Keep a suitable piece in reserve for Celery, which may remain at present untouched, except keeping it clean. Kale and Broccoli may be taken to a shady corner, lifting the roots entire, and placing them thickly in the ground; late gatherings will thus be secured, and valuable ground set at liberty for immediate work. Every growing crop - such as Cabbage, Spinach, autumn-sown Onions, etc. - should have the hoe run through among them as soon as possible, clearing them of weeds and decayed leaves same time. Sow the principal crops of Onions, Parsnips, and Leeks; the latter to be sown in a bed or border, to be planted out when large enough.

Sowing and thinning them like Onions gives little trouble, but blanching is then out of the question. Aytoun's Giant (Henry's Prize of some) is very large in size, but less hardy, and not so firm as the True Scotch. Kale, Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower, and an early kind or two of Broccoli, should be sown on a sheltered border, or ridge thrown up to face the sun. If soil is heavy, the seeds will vegetate more quickly if the drills are filled in with light waste soil or leaf-mould, free from sticks, etc. "We have known soil so heavy and tenacious that drills had to be made with a spade, and charcoal-dust used to fill them in, and splendid crops raised. A good start for seeds is half the battle, as when they are enclosed with a cold battered surface, which excludes sun and air, they are long in coming up; then they are weakly and stunted, falling an easy prey to vermin and drought. Some sow their main crops of Broccoli during this month. We have always found April sowings do best, especially in the south of England. The last week of March is early enough for Scotland; gross growth with this tribe of plants seldom gives the best supplies, as they are easily destroyed by a severe winter. Brussels Sprouts for first crop may be sown at once.

This is, perhaps, the most valuable of all winter vegetables, and should be grown extensively. Savoy for autumn supply may be sown now - early Ulm is a useful little kind for first crop. Radishes, Mustard, and Cress, may be sown at regular periods, according to demand; French Breakfast and Short Top are two of the best Radishes. Turnips may be sown in small quantities where they can be protected; they run quickly to seed at this season. Carrots for early supply may be sown on a sheltered border, using sand in the soil if it is heavy. Early Horn is suitable for present sowing. Broad Beans may now be sown for succession, and every three weeks to the end of May - Johnston's Wonderful and Taylor's Windsor are two of the best for main sowings. Beck's dwarf Gem and dwarf Fan are useful for borders. The large kinds require drills 2 to 3 feet apart (according to strength of growth), and from 4 to 6 inches between the seeds. Peas may be sown twice in the month if required, and those which may have been raised in boxes, etc, planted out. Champion of England and Dickson's Favourite are still two of the best for present sowing; single rows kept wide apart, so that cropping between them may be carried out, is the most economical system of growing them. On rich ground they should be sown thinly.

Mice will now be troublesome, and will require to be watched, as a crop is soon destroyed. Stake any Peas requiring it before they fall over. Spinach for a regular supply may be sown in flat shallow drills every fortnight or less. Tomatoes, Celery, Capsicums, and Vegetable Marrows (for an early crop under glass), New Zealand Spinach, for planting out under handlights, may now be sown. The main crop of Celery may be left till the end of the month. Seedlings, when ready to handle, may be lifted and pricked out on rich light soil, - an inch or two placed on rotten manure does well; protection with glass and careful watering are necessary to prevent "bolting." Dwarf Incomparable, Manchester Champion, Cole's red and white kinds, are among the best, and go under many other names. Nearly all kinds of herbs may be sown this month -tender kinds under glass. Seakale may be planted in rows 2 feet apart and 8 inches to 1 foot between the roots, but wider if intended to be forced on the ground. Ground for Carrots, to be sown next month, should be well worked, and the surface turned over. Lime and soot are often used against vermin which attack the Carrot. In some localities Carrots cannot be grown.

We do not know a single case in this locality where complete success can be depended on, and we seldom secure a crop free from the attacks of grub. Everything we have seen in print has been tried, but to no great purpose. Last year was an exception. Two pieces of ground were prepared early in March; a quantity of lime-stones was spread on one plot, and allowed to remain till it was all down to powder, and then forked slightly into the surface. The Carrots were sown in the usual way, covering in the seed slightly with wood-ashes and old potting soil. The Carrots were very large, and of the finest quality. On the other plot gas-lime was used, same as the lime - stones, and the result was equally good. Exposure to the weather for a number of weeks rendered this dangerous material harmless. We once crippled a crop of Onions by using gas-lime fresh. Jerusalem Artichokes may now be planted in rows, either single or 3 feet apart, and 1 foot between the tubers; single rows give the finest produce. Potatoes may be planted without delay, either in drills or by dibber.

If land is heavy, drills answer best; and if the tubers are covered with a little leaf-mould or old turfy soil next them, they will grow more freely: 2 feet between the rows is a fair width, but for very strong-growing kinds 3 feet is not too much: 1 foot or 15 inches between the tubers is enough. When sun and air have free access to the growing crop, the quality is much finer. The herb-ground should be dressed, giving a surfacing of manure where it may be necessary. Some may be lifted and increased.

M. T.