The necessity of having the soil (in which seeds are to be sown) in good healthy condition has been so frequently referred to, it is unnecessary to say much on the subject now. However we would, "by way of a reminder," say that, whenever weather is dry and suitable for sowing the numerous kinds of seeds at this season, let no opportunity be lost; the season is advancing, and when any one is "caught napping," it is almost impossible to make up for lost time. There is no economy in half-doing the work, and disappointments are often the fruit of neglect. However, there are often in the best-managed gardens enemies which are barriers to success - such as slugs, grubs, insects, birds, etc. Sliced Turnips placed round the plots often trap slugs in great numbers. Netting is perhaps the most effectual method of keeping birds at bay. Dustings of lime, soot, coal-ashes, red-lead, etc, are means often employed with success by practical men. To keep up regular supplies of vegetables, there should be no glut at any season, otherwise scarcity may be expected to follow. Sow regular, and in quantities suitable to the demand. The main sowing of Carrot may soon be got in. In late localities, the earlier in the month the better. Long Surrey and James's Scarlet are two of the best for main crops.

Short Horn may be sown closer in the rows for drawing young. The first two do well in drills from 1 foot to 16 inches apart. The nature of the ground alone can decide distance. When seeds of any kind are well sown they should come up without being matted, and be free from each other. Timely thinning, and doing it at different times, may be necessary. Beet may be sown (for an early supply) about the middle of the month. The main crop need not be sown till May. Moderately rich ground of good depth, and neither very heavy nor sandy, suits Beet well; when grown on poor dry soil it may be handsome, but certainly unfit for use - stringy tough roots are worthless. Sang's Selected holds its own for fine flavour with any we have tried. Dewar's is very handsome. Osborn's is good, and the best we have seen for foliage. Scarlet-runners may be sown about the third week in the month, on a warm sheltered border, or placed in turf, and grown under protection till danger from frost is past; single lines of this vegetable are most profitable. Edgings to plots, when they are kept topped down, is a good way of keeping up good supplies: picking off the pods before they seed will allow the plants to keep up a vigorous growth and be loaded with produce till frost takes them.

French Beans may be sown under protection; and where Potatoes are grown in frames, or Carrots forced, the Beans make a good succession. When these crops are finished, and when danger from frost is past, the frame may be removed for late Cucumbers or any other purpose - such is our practice, and we thus get abundance of French Beans with little trouble till they are ready out in the ground. There is not much gained by sowing very early in open borders. Asparagus ground may be prepared by deeply-trenching and thoroughly manuring it preparatory for the young plants, which are planted in rows on beds and covered with a few inches of rich soil. The young plants should be sprouting before they are planted. Successions of broad Beans and Peas must be kept up, sowing some every two or three weeks, according to demand. Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Kale, Savoys, and Cauliflower may be sown in quantity, keeping them together on a border, so that they can be netted and kept safe from birds. Thickly-sown plants are always weakly and drawn. Chervil and Parsley may be sown as edgings.

Lettuce (both Cos and Cabbage sorts) may be sown on deeply-worked soil which has been well manured, to be thinned out to 8 inches or 1 foot apart; the thinnings may be placed in a shady position, to come in as a succession, or a small bed or row may be sown to be wholly planted out. Plenty of manure in the ground is necessary to grow crisp, juicy Lettuce. Tomatoes should be kept growing, but gradually hardened off to get them ready for their fruiting quarters; more seed may yet be sown for late work. Potato - planting should be finished as soon as possible. Radish, and all kinds of Salads, should be sown as demand requires. Birds will speedily find out the seeds and eat them up if not protected. Rhubarb may be sown if it is required; a warm, light border answers well for sowing the seed. To blanch Rhubarb, pots and boxes may be kept over it. Some prefer it blanched all the season through. Turnips may be sown, and protected as they come through the ground with branches, or hoops and mats. Wood-ashes and soot help to keep off the small fly which is so severe upon them. Vegetable marrows may be sown soon; if they can be kept under glass till they are large and strong, supplies of fruit would be had early.

The end of the month is early enough to sow them when there is no proper protection for early fruiting. The same may be said of ridge Cucumbers and Gherkins. New Zealand Spinach may also be raised under protection. It is valuable for standing when drought is severe. For autumn use it may be sown in a sheltered border late in May. Round Spinach requires to be sown every ten or twelve days throughout the summer - thoroughly moistening the soil the day before sowing the seed causes it to vegetate and grow quickly, thus keeping the plants longer in running to seed. Gardens should be gone over at this season, measuring the borders and plot, and edging them to their proper limits, keeping alleys where they are necessary. The garden at this season is less troublesome to keep clean than any other, and when weeds show themselves they should be attacked at once with the hoe. Dry sunny weather will soon put an end to them when the hoe has been previously well handled. Every growing crop should have a well-hoed surface, and no decaying leaves allowed to stand. If water should require to be applied to any crops, a good soaking of it may be given, and dry soil drawn over the roots which have been watered; frequent dribblings is a ruinous practice.

If time can be spared, Celery ridges may be made - either for single rows by throwing out a ridge a spade or more wide, building up the soil neatly, and then placing a quantity of rotten manure in the bottom and digging it down; or 4 or 5 feet wide thrown out in the same way, manuring it well.

M. T.