Where labour is at command, and much extra work not on hand, kitchen-garden operations will be well advanced. Vacant ground will be well ridged up to be exposed to frost, having been trenched or dug. Trenching can hardly be overdone, either by being done deeply (so long as bad soil is not brought up) or frequently; but this work has too often to be neglected for other passing duties, or from scarcity of labour employed. Where crops are soon to be cleared off the ground, manure may be wheeled on to any empty space adjoining, already cleared, to be turned down in the process of trenching, keeping rank material at the bottom, and extra-rotten stuff may be kept under the top spade only. Where Kale or similar crops are almost finished, what are left may be lifted to a spare corner, and the roots laid into the soil. They will do well till used up, and allow the more important quarters to be turned up as desired, thus keeping order in the garden, and helping forward with the work. Keep all standing crops free from decaying leaves, which will be plentiful after sharp frost.

If Spinach ha.3 been trodden much between the rows when the leaves have been gathered, let the hoe or fork be carefully applied to open the surface-soil. Cover Celery with litter in severe weather; but to prevent it rotting, it should be exposed when weather is fine; or the crop, where means are abundant, may be lifted to a shed or open outhouse, and placed upright in sand. This is only necessary where climate and soil are very wet. Peas, for first or succession crops, may be sown on a warm border, covering the seed with warm dry soil; protect those through the ground. Peas of an early kind may be sown in boxes, pots, turfs, etc, and brought on slowly, to be planted out in March. They can be brought on quickly by heat, and hardened off afterwards; but the slow, hardy method is the best. Beans may be treated in the same way. Radishes and early Horn Carrots may be sown in frames; the Radishes sown with the Carrots will be off before the latter are up, thus having two crops from one bed: little heat is required. Potatoes, if already sprouted, may be planted in good light loam, placed on leaves, or any other gentle-heating material, in pits or frames.

Frost and cold winds should be kept out, but a close dark structure will only give long tops and "little root." Cauliflower, Lettuce, and other vegetables under protection, must have plenty of air and light, and be kept free from damp, stirring the surface-soil frequently. Cauliflower-seed may now be sown in healthy light soil, to be brought forward with plenty of light and air; boxes and pans answer well for this purpose; they can be removed to suitable positions as may be necessary. Tomatoes recently taken from pots, and not quite ripe, may be taken to a dry position, where there is a little warmth. When there are suitable structures, these can be had all the year round, growing them in pots for first and last supplies. Some use pots all the year through, plunging them in summer. The pot system is perhaps the oldest, and extensively carried out by market-men around London, where this useful fruit can be grown almost as simply as Potatoes. Supplies of Sea-kale, Asparagus, and Rhubarb will come in quickly now, and require mild forcing, lifting as many roots at each time as the demand requires. Rhubarb and Asparagus require plenty of light and air, where high colour and fine flavour are objects. Rhubarb covered with manure is inferior to that which has more natural treatment.

Supplies of Parsnips and Jerusalem Artichokes may be taken up in open weather, to have plenty when frost and snow prevail. Salads of all kinds, such as young Onions, Mustard, Cress, Chicory, may now be abundant. Weekly sowings in boxes or pans will keep up fresh supplies. Chicory will do well anywhere in the dark, and answers well when Lettuce are scarce; and Dandelion sprouted in this way is no mean salad.

M. T.