This Lily can be purchased very cheap as compared with the price of a great many others, and yet it is not cultivated in private gardens half so much as it ought to be. However beautiful many other Liliums may be, none are easier to cultivate, and few that can surpass this one for purity and usefulness. Considering all its qualities, it is a Lily that should be grown in every garden, and those who have never grown Liliums will not fail in cultivating this one. I have never had a bulb yet that failed to produce from three to five of its large trumpet-shaped flowers, which are pure white and highly fragrant. If placed in a pot it will do well either in heat or in a cold frame, or planted in the borders outside. For the latter purpose it is a grand plant, but is of the greatest service when cultivated in pots. One great feature in this Lily is its dwarf habit. It does not exceed 18 inches in height, unless drawn up in strong heat, and a great distance from the glass, and even then it is not inclined to grow much taller. When under cool treatment it seldom attains that height. It can be grown in 4-inch pots, which are sufficiently large to develop its highest qualities. For room decoration it is useful, and for cutting for vase work, - in fact it is suitable for all kinds of decoration.

In the early season when Azaleas are nearly past, and Hyacinths and many other bulbous plants have done flowering, this Lily can be had in flower, and for the conservatory is invaluable. To have it in flower early in the season, the bulbs should be obtained as soon as possible, and placed in pots, either singly in the size mentioned, or three in 6-inch pots, or six in 8-inch pots. When principally wanted for the embellishment of the conservatory, it is wise to grow a few in both sizes. As regards soil, this Lily does not appear very particular. It flourishes well in loam and a seventh of manure with plenty of coarse sand; or loam and peat will grow it equally well. In potting, the pots should be well-drained, and a little sand placed under each bulb, and covered with at least half an inch of soil. After potting, if the soil is in proper condition, little or no water will be needed until the roots commence working. At the same time, the soil must not become dust-dry if wanted to grow. The pots containing the bulbs can either be placed in a vinery starting, or in a peach-house, or, if not wanted early, placed in a cool house.

If required earlier than these positions will bring them on, the pots can be plunged in gentle bottom-heat, keeping the tops much cooler in proportion, until a good quantity of roots are formed. When the stem appears through the soil, more water can with advantage be given, and the temperature kept at about 55°, to be raised another 5° when the plants are about 9 inches high. Bottom-heat should then be dispensed with, or the plants will develop weakly. In the last-named temperature the plants will grow rapidly enough, and the pots soon be full of roots, when weak manure-water may be given every time they require water. When the flower-buds can be seen, the plants, if desired, will stand a higher temperature than - but they develop rapidly in - 60°. When grown in that temperature, they should have a position close to the glass, where they can enjoy plenty of light. If a batch is grown on rapidly until the flowers are observed, it is surprising what a time they can be kept back afterwards by proper management. The plants must not be syringed after the flowers open, or the yellow pollen is liable to spoil the inside of the flower.

For some time after flowering, manure-water should be given to assist in developing the bulbs as they mature.

While growing they are subject to green-fly in the end of the shoot, which is readily destroyed, either by fumigating the plants or by dusting them with tobacco-powder. William Bardney.