Considering the excessive cold of the last three months, it is more than probable that the majority of early-fruiting Queens that are usually past the flowering stage by the end of last month are only coming into bloom at the beginning of this month. Until they have set all their pips, the atmosphere should be only moderately moist, although there is not the danger now of their not setting well that exists earlier in the year. As soon as they begin to swell freely, the plants may be very lightly moistened three times weekly through a fine syringe at shutting-up time on fine bright days. Now that the sun has more power, and the days are longer, the temperature may run up to from 80° to 85°, when the pinery is shut up with sun-heat. The night temperature may now be advanced to 70°; and with a steady bottom-heat of 85° to 90°, the fruits will make rapid progress. Water with guano - water at the rate of two ounces to four gallons of water, and keep the soil steadily moist. The rest of the fruiting Queens intended to ripen in succession to the earliest should now be subjected to the same temperatures recommended above.

Should they show the slightest tendency to grow instead of fruiting, give them no more water until they start than is just enough to prevent them from suffering. Late - started fruits of smooth Cayennes or any other winter sorts will now make rapid progress, and some of them may begin to colour by the end of the month. And at this season they should have very little water after they begin to change colour - at the same time do not let them become dusty-dry. If early autumn succers were not shifted into their fruiting-pots last month, lose no time in shifting them now. The soil should be placed in some warm place for a few days before it is used, and the balls of the young plants should be in a medium state of moisture at the time they are shifted. Plunge them in a bottom-heat of 85°; range the night temperature at 65° at 10 p.m., falling to 60° by 6 a.m. If the weather be sunny and the soil used rather dry - as it should be - the plants should be watered immediately they are plunged. "When the weather is bright, give them a very light dewing overhead three times weekly with tepid water, when shut up early with a sun-heat of 80°, for an hour or two. Give more or less air daily, according to the weather, increasing it as the plants begin to grow.

Examine later succers by the end of the month, and if well rooted and healthy, shift them; but if from any cause these have the soil deranged by such as worms or drip, it is best to shake them entirely out, repotting them into 7 or 8 inch pots, according to their size. All plants intended for starting about three months hence should still be kept quiet, only see that they do not become over dry at the root. The soil should be moist and nothing more, and the temperature 5° lower than has been recommended for fruiting-plants. Any portion of the stock intended for later fruiting, and that are now in 8-inch pots, should be shifted into 10 and 11 inch pots, according to the state they are in, and encouraged to grow as directed for succession plants.

Pine Forcing #1

Probably succession Pines that are usually shifted into their fruiting-pots in February have not been attended to at the usual time owing to the long - continued and severe frost. Their having been subjected to such an unusual amount of fire-heat, and left for a month longer in small pots, has increased the possibility of their starting prematurely into fruit when shifted and subjected to increased temperature of both soil and air. To counteract this tendency a little extra attention is necessary all through the month. They should be kept a little moister at the roots; and the atmosphere should also be more moist than would be necessary in ordinary seasons. If April be bright and dry, shade the plants slightly for three hours in the middle of the day, and keep the pits somewhat closer until it be quite evident that the plants have started kindly into growth; then do away with the shade by degrees, give more air, and in every respect adopt a hardier treatment to prevent a weakly growth. The night temperature will be high enough at 65°. Give air in the morn-ing before the glass touches 75° with sun-heat, gradually increasing it till noon.

Shut up by degrees, and entirely, sufficiently early to run the glass to 85° for a short time with sun-heat. Early-started Queens may now be pushed on with increased heat, especially on sunny days, when the house should be closed early enough to run the glass up to 85°, with a corresponding amount of moisture. Start the fire in time to prevent the heat from falling below 70° at 10 p. M. In cold clear nights 65° at 9 a.m. will be sufficient. Keep them steadily moist at the root, and occasionally give the surface of the soil a pinch of Standen's manure before watering; or water every time they are dry with water coloured with guano. As soon as these early fruiters - almost always Queens - show suckers, reduce the number to two on each plant. Smooth Cayennes, and other sorts that may have started late and that are now colouring, should be kept at 70° at night, and have rather more air on fine days, to insure fine flavour. The soil should be less moist than when swelling off; but do not now dry them off as has been recommended for midwinter ripening.

Any suckers on these should now be potted, and if young stock be desired, save the old stools; and after the fruit are cut, remove all the leaves, and lay the stumps in light open soil in a bottom-heat of 85°, and they will soon start a quantity of buds that will make nice young plants by autumn. Shift winter-fruiting sorts that are well rooted in 8-inch into 11-inch pots, and grow on briskly for three months; and after being then kept cool and dry for six weeks they will start for winter supply.